Quarantine tank for Corals - whats the procedure

[Intheflesh]

I've been tossing around the idea of ordering a mixed wholesale box from LIVESTOCKUSA.ORG. I found them through R2R. Basically it is a wholesaler that will sell to general public. Prices are $700-1200/box depending on location, what you get, etc.

Normally I do not quarantine my corals. If they are aquacultured, or from a reputable source I roll the proverbial dice, and just break the base off if possible, look for eggs, and dip in Bayer. It has worked so far (granted I do not have many acros in my tank).

With adding a bunch of wild/maricultured mixed corals straight from the ocean, I think setting up a QT tank might be the way to go. Not only for the normal pests - gorilla crabs, AEFW, red bugs, nudis, etc; but also for Ich and Velvet. I just learned these are transmitted via corals.

I've found a lot of articles online describing fish quarantine procedures, but not much on coral. I know that a 76 day farrow period in a fish free environment should rid the corals of ich and velvet (if they are carrying it). What about the normal pests? How do we deal with these? Weekly dips? treating the whole tank?

 

[Robert M]

Interesting. I didn't realize you could buy in such bulk. Shipping is clearly steep, but if you want to get a whole bunch of corals at once, it might be a very good idea. Also, seems like their website implies there is an extra (unknown) shipping cost to get the box from LA to Boston, and that you might have to pick up the package at the airport?

When my new tank arrives, I might think about doing something similar (especially if you have a good experience), so if you do buy with them, please report on the quality and how the ordering went. I'm probably about 4 months away from purchasing myself, but otherwise would offer to share an order if it would reduce the shipping costs, which appear to be about half the total cost.

I haven't yet quarantined corals, but I've researched it because I'm also planning on purchasing in bulk. I think your current quarantine (cut off base from rock and dip in Bayer, e.g. https://boroaquatics.com/blogs/articles/17033867-proper-dipping-of-corals-the-bayer-method ) is the right one. My opinion would be that I would worry about ich and velvet LESS from Livestockusa.org because it's more likely their coral comes directly from an aqua-culture tank or the ocean. I think the biggest worry is if the coral has been in an aquarium with fish, as parasites like velvet and ich thrive much better in an aquarium than in open ocean. Thus your local reputable source might be more risky than getting directly from the supplier because the coral would have spent more time with fish in someone else's aquarium. All that said, I'm not aware of anyone using a more complex coral quarantine protocol than a 1-time Bayer dip and 60-75 days in a fishless tank. As far as I'm aware, weekly dips are unnecessary as the first dip would kill all the critters and the 60-75 days would kill the parasites. And of course if you tried to treat your corals for ich/velvet with medicine, you'd likely kill the coral.

 

[Intheflesh]

My opinion would be that I would worry about ich and velvet LESS from Livestockusa.org because it's more likely their coral comes directly from an aqua-culture tank or the ocean. I think the biggest worry is if the coral has been in an aquarium with fish, as parasites like velvet and ich thrive much better in an aquarium than in open ocean.

That is a very good point, and one I hadn't considered.

One thing that still bothers me (not sure if that is the right word): How do you completely eradicate AEFW during QT? Dips wont kill the eggs. So basically you will just have to keep re-dipping every so often as to kill the hatchlings before they have a chance to reach maturity and lay eggs of their own. But what happens to if a few of the hatchlings become waterborn, or leave the colony. You still have the AEFW in the water column (not even sure if this is possible). I suppose 3 methods for killing these "sole survivors": 1) a wrasse (not possible in a fishless QT system), 2) a continual whole tank treatment such as KZ flatworm stop, or 3) a 2 tank transfer method as to completely disrupt the life cycle. This is a method similar to that used for treating fish with Ich.

Maybe I am completely over thinking this process. but my tank is still young, and I want to make sure I keep it healthy and free of pests as I progress.

 

[Robert M]

Yeah sure. So like you said Bayer kills AEFW, but not the eggs. A quick and easy method for getting rid of most of the eggs is by cutting off the coral from its base (which you already do) and then blasting the coral with water from a turkey baster or powerhead to dislodge any stray critters and AEFW eggs before putting in QT, and then examining the coral closely for a few days. If you don't see any eggs or AEFW during your quarantine period, it's probably ok. Bayer is stressful to corals, so best not to overdo it unless you think its required--too much Bayer or too long of a dip can bleach coral when a lower time or solution would still kill all the critters. I've not had to deal with AEFW though.

However, if you want to be 100% sure to kill AEFW, including eggs, this article provides some good details on how you could do a better job, and what you should do if you do see them on your coral: http://www.melevsreef.com/articles/acropora-eating-flat-worms-aefw

 

[dz6t]

There are several these types of transhipper. You are basically gamble. If something sounds too good to be true, very often it is.
Besides the inflated shipping cost and so called wholesale price, you get a box of pests and many coral that have little chance to live.
I don’t even bother to order from these places. Got burnt before and won’t do it again.




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