Stand building materials

[Intheflesh]

http://www.lowes.com/pd_7499-99899-...Ntt=7499&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=7499&facetInfo=


I have to rebuild my stand. I build a stand for a 57 rimless with center over flow. sold that tank, and bought a 48 rimless, with an off center overflow. Needles to say, i didn;t measure before ordering. the over flow is right over a dividing wall inside the stand. This weekend I am going to build a quick skeleton. Was thinking of using the 4x1 cedar in the the link. yes, it is more expensive than 2x4s; but I hate the bulky look of lumber. Plus this is easy enough to cut with a milter box and saw (limited access to tools)

I was going to then skin the frame with 1/2" ply wood. Stand to be primed in a heavy build primer, and painted.

Will 1x4 boards be suitable to use for a frame? Actuall dimensions are 11/16 x 3-7/16.

 

[Flame Angel]

Believe it or not... have you ever looked at a manufactured stand for a 180g tank... It is made from 1"x4" pine.

Most of those are just glued and stapled... By gluing there is more bonding between the pieces of wood to carry the weight.

The weight is being carried form the top down through the wood. Plus if you are skinning it with furniture grade plywood.

I feel you should be good, but let’s see what a couple of our carpentry buddies out there say.

 

[rschroeter]

I just picked up a used tank and stand, and I was a little shocked to see that it was being held up by six 1"x4" pine - holding up a 120 gallon (4x2x2) tank. It was like when I first learned planes could fly "wow that just can't be possible". If I didn't know this tank sat on that stand for 6 years, I'd have bet against it.

 

[P-Nut]

I am building a stand right now. I like to use 2×4 but the stand will be bigger than the tank so it needs to be strong to hold the tank in the center. Most manufactured stands I see look like they won't hold a 10lbs baby, so I think you will be fine.

I will use magnets for the front panel and AIR stones (very light stones) from Lowes to glue all over the skin plywood.

 

[ro_nicu]

there are online calculators that will tell you exactly how much weight a piece of wood of certain dimensions and species can support; that's if you want to go that far.
while cedar looks good and is resistant to decay I could not use it for structural work unless you know what you are doing - it's known for splitting with great ease. Pine is even cheaper and does not split as easily. stains well and is easy to work with.

you would be surprised how much weight wood can take - on my recent trip to maine I've see a house where the roof was framed 24 on center with 2x6 (not dimensional, the regular ones from Lowes / HD). the rafters are more than 20ft length on a 5/12 pitch. According to engineering standards in the Mass Building Code that house should have been a pile of rubble the first snowfall yet it still stands 60 years later and shows no signs of deformation, sag or excessive strain on the lumber, ...

back to your project, if you can afford it use oak, it looks good, does not split and is very strong. if you're around worcester feel free to drop by and use my power tools.

 

[Intheflesh]

Went to lowes after work. .. the Cedar definitely felt cheaper, and dont think I'd feel comfortable using it. For an extra $2 per sick, I think I'm going to build the frame out of 1x4 pine or some other hard wood

 

[JoelA]

Poplar is another excellent choice. Easy to work nice fine grain. As to your plywood I suggest using 3/4" marine grade with one side with a birch finish quality surface. Much better material. So strong and water resistant.

 

[Intheflesh]

Poplar is another excellent choice. Easy to work nice fine grain. As to your plywood I suggest using 3/4" marine grade with one side with a birch finish quality surface. Much better material. So strong and water resistant.

Thanks for the recommendation!

 

[Intheflesh]

Darn. was hoping work was closed today- Really wanted to get a jump start on the stand to finish over the weekend.

But- here I am at my desk!

 

[Flame Angel]

I know what you mean.

 

[Intheflesh]

Lets talk about painting.

I want to do as close to a piano black finish as possible within my own capabilities, of course.

I was going to use http://www.lowes.com/pd_282331-4-410.0065062.076_0__?productId=3728919 for my color.

What kind of prep work do i need to do. I have been reading all morning, and thouroughly confused.

Should I start with a sanding sealer? Can I skip this step and use a high build primer to sand flat? Will the grain show through the primer over time?

 

[jayinh]

that color will show EVERTHING... you best have a good build and put in the work on the prep or your just wasting money.

I like to cut the first coat of primer with water so the wood will soak it in, then follow with a couple more prime coats while block sanding flat and smooth.Cedar would have been a poor choice IMO for the build, glad you didn't go that route.

 

[Overlook reef]

that color will show EVERTHING... you best have a good build and put in the work on the prep or your just wasting money.

I like to cut the first coat of primer with water so the wood will soak it in, then follow with a couple more prime coats while block sanding flat and smooth.Cedar would have been a poor choice IMO for the build, glad you didn't go that route.

+1 on paint and Cedar.

Cedar has a loose grain and may have weak spots in a 1x4. It may have been fine, but I would not have taken a chance.