Does anyone actually run RO/DI w/chloramine removal?

jdeb101

Non-member
I recently purchased new filters off BRS that are capable of removing chloramines. I did this after realizing my tap has chloramines, but now after reading this article (http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/) I'm doubting it was actually necessary and thinking I wasted the extra money. Does anyone here actually use chloramine removing filters in their RO unit?
 
I bought a 75gpd, 5 stage RODI from Air, Water and Ice that also removes chloramines. Chloramine removal was standard for this system, nothing extra to buy.
 
Conclusions

Chloramine in tap water should be a significant concern to aquarists. Its peculiar properties make it well suited to disinfection of water supplies, but also make it a potential toxin in aquaria. In order to render the water safe for use, aquarists need to use one of two systems for purification: an inorganic reducing agent combined with an additive that binds ammonia (or a single product that does both), or an RO/DI system.

The conclusion states that an RODI system removes chlorine. I would assume that this is sufficient. Also, if your RODI has zero PPM than wouldn't you have zero chorine?
 
In addition to being toxic to aquarium life, chloramines can 'poison' your RO membrane, and should be removed before your water goes through the RO membrane (as told to me by SpectraPure tech support) as chloramines will shorten the life of the membrane.
 
+1 on chloramines degrading the RO membrane. Test your tap water for chloramines to determine if you have it.
 
I run it in mine as i bought it with the unit and I continue to run it. Can't hurt and I know Boston has chloramines in its water supply.
 
+1 on chloramines degrading the RO membrane. Test your tap water for chloramines to determine if you have it.

You can also find out from your local water department if they use either chloramines or chlorine to disinfect the water. Obviously if you have your own well water, you don't need to worry about chlorine. However, I believe all municipal water supplies are required to do some type of disinfection.
 
Yes, my town does have chloramines which led me to buying the filters to remove it. I've been running with just regular filters for years now without noticing any ill effect so it may be that the regular RO/DI filters are removing them, but if it's at the cost of degrading my membrane then I'm glad I got the chlor removal filters.
 
AFAIK, a quality carbon block filter is all you need. Nothing special for chloramines. I have chloramines in my water and have been using "regular" carbon blocks since I started in the hobby, two years ago. Still using the original membranes that show no sign of needing to be replaced.
 
AFAIK, a quality carbon block filter is all you need. Nothing special for chloramines. I have chloramines in my water and have been using "regular" carbon blocks since I started in the hobby, two years ago. Still using the original membranes that show no sign of needing to be replaced.

I thanks Marshall. I will prob just go back to normal filters once I use these one up to save a little $.
 
it would be interesting if there was some type of test out there that would show us if chloramines actually do reduce the membrane life.......if it does is it substantial to justify the additional cost?
 
Simple googling will turn up many studies on the subject. I'm not smart enough to understand most of it, but from what I can gather it's the ammonia component that causes the membrane pores to swell and cause a lower rejection rate.

Here's an interesting article from someone respected in this hobby written so that even I can understand.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/
 
AFAIK, a quality carbon block filter is all you need. Nothing special for chloramines. I have chloramines in my water and have been using "regular" carbon blocks since I started in the hobby, two years ago. Still using the original membranes that show no sign of needing to be replaced.

Righto.
We conducted a test with Randy Holmes Farley back in the day. We bought chloramine test kits. Our result was the carbon removed chloramines.


Edit: the link above is to Randy's article about the testing we did that I mentioned. His "Lessons Learned..." items are worth posting:

[quote="Randy Holmes-Farley']Lessons Learned and Suggestions:
1. Most RO/DI systems seem capable of removing chloramine adequately for aquarists.
2. The carbon cartridge may become less useful over time, and it is possible that the chloramine removal effectiveness of a system may be lost before the DI appears to need changing.
3. Cheap sediment cartridges may expose the carbon cartridge to unnecessary fouling, which may permit chloramine to pass through the system. Cartridges should be replaced as soon as the pressure drops significantly, even if RO/DI water is still being produced at a reasonable rate or purity as measured by total dissolved solids.
4. Testing for chlorine and chloramine is easy, so any concern is easily reconciled.
5. One Hach kit provides several dozen test results. Our local Boston Club bought some kits and had a "water testing day." The kits can also become part of the "library" of a local club for aquarists to use once in a while to see if their systems are functioning. That way, the cost to each aquarist is minimal.[/quote]
 
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If I'm not mistaken the major difference between the standard RO/DI units and the chloramine "upgrade" is the replacement if a carbon block stage with a media canister filled with granular carbon. Looking at Randy's lessons learned that seems reasonable, using a granular cartridge should prevent any carbon bypass if the block gets clogged also its probably a bit cheaper to replace the granular carbon on a slightly more frequent basis then it is to buy block filters more frequently.
Of course just keeping up with your pre-filter changes and watching for pressure drops and changing filters right away would also work, the granular cartridge just gives you a bit more slack which is good if your like me and forget to check incoming pressure regularly.
 
If I'm not mistaken the major difference between the standard RO/DI units and the chloramine "upgrade" is the replacement if a carbon block stage with a media canister filled with granular carbon. Looking at Randy's lessons learned that seems reasonable, using a granular cartridge should prevent any carbon bypass if the block gets clogged also its probably a bit cheaper to replace the granular carbon on a slightly more frequent basis then it is to buy block filters more frequently.
Of course just keeping up with your pre-filter changes and watching for pressure drops and changing filters right away would also work, the granular cartridge just gives you a bit more slack which is good if your like me and forget to check incoming pressure regularly.

I am not a fan of granular carbon to be honest. Reason is the carbon itself is dirty from the start, and can end up fouling membranes themselves if not properly flushed. Just using a quality carbon block with appropriate sediment pre-filters that are replaced when needed has been the trick for me. So basically, I agree with the second part of your statement 100% :)
 
Careful here guys...

First - RO membranes have a very high tolerance for exposure to chloramines - the issue is that where you have chloramines, you'll also likely have some free chlorine - it's the chlorine that is tough on the membranes.

If conditions are right, and if a single carbon block is in good shape, it will adequately break ammonia/chlorine bond. But if conditions aren't right, or if the carbon block is not in good shape, a second carbon stage is warranted/appropriate/a good idea. Considering how toxic chloramine is to aquatic life, the $1000's of dollars wrapped up in your tank, and the low cost of a second carbon stage (best to use a carbon block designed to treat chloramines) - it makes sense to use it.

Russ
 
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