scavdog
Well-Known Member
Do you think its possible to replace the plastic coil with titanium? Maybe too cost prohibitive?
http://www.turbotecproducts.com/product5_1.htm
http://www.turbotecproducts.com/product5_1.htm
FHW Oil Heat (no Electric Heater) Save big bucks.
- Thread starter rtc_reefer
- Start date
OP
OP
rtc_reefer
Non-member
Probably could, but the 100' of red flex was only about 26.00 as I remember it anyways. The tubing works great.
OP
OP
rtc_reefer
Non-member
The bill has this info, but I'm still waiting for a complete billing cycle. Once I get it I'll do a compare.
I agree with jackwl. I'm a plumber (who also does heating) as well. The flexible tubing that has entered the industry has specific applications, and I'm also concerned with the transition fittings you used. The idea is fantastic and can work properly, but I'm not positive you used the right materials. They do make the correct piping and fittings for your application. My main concern is that the pipe or fittings would let go and flood your system with boiler water. Your heating system has a potetial operating temperature of 220 degrees +/-. All you really need to do is make sure the products you used can handle those temperatures. I'm more concerned about the fittings (look like John Guest fittings) you should check the specs on those.
I hope I don't sound discouraging, you really have a good idea and it can work. I would feel terrible if something happened without warning you.
Good Luck
I hope I don't sound discouraging, you really have a good idea and it can work. I would feel terrible if something happened without warning you.
Good Luck
dave601m
Non-member
if you don't have a boiler in your house, how about parking one of these babies outside your house???
http://www.groundheaters.com/pureheat.htm
860,000 btu/hr enough to heat your tanks?
even comes with a few heat exchangers
http://www.groundheaters.com/pureheat.htm
860,000 btu/hr enough to heat your tanks?
even comes with a few heat exchangers100 feet of it in your sump for the heat exchanger?
Getting ready to do this... I am using pex and running to my hot water circuit instead of the heating circuit.
Thoughts?
A concern would be running 200 degree water in and having it take too long to cool.
Anyone run the math?
My sump is 425g, my fuge is 125g and my display is 155g.
Getting ready to do this... I am using pex and running to my hot water circuit instead of the heating circuit.
Thoughts?
A concern would be running 200 degree water in and having it take too long to cool.
Anyone run the math?
My sump is 425g, my fuge is 125g and my display is 155g.
marco67
Smart is.. a box of rocks
I just set one of these up,
Went with 200' 3/8" radiant heating pecs in the 150 rubermaid sump.
Zoned from the recirculating hot water instead of the boiler for two reasons:
1) boiler water is so damn toxic that the thought of even a slight leak was out of the question.
2)domestic hot water at 120deg vs boiler at 180+ , gave some fudge room in a couple of areas. One being temp "creap" after shut off.
Went with 200' 3/8" radiant heating pecs in the 150 rubermaid sump.
Zoned from the recirculating hot water instead of the boiler for two reasons:
1) boiler water is so damn toxic that the thought of even a slight leak was out of the question.
2)domestic hot water at 120deg vs boiler at 180+ , gave some fudge room in a couple of areas. One being temp "creap" after shut off.
Is there any temp drift? I.E. You set the controller to x and it's really y on the thermometer?
I have 250' of pex. I planned on 150' of it in my sump, but I wonder if that's enough now.
marco67
Smart is.. a box of rocks
The system isn't stand alone yet, still testing.
I'm switching the zone valve with a 2 stage Ranco controler (what else ) the heating stage is set at 78 with a 1deg diff, that means it comes on at 77 and off at 79, I'll set the tubing length so that there is no more than 1deg "drift" once off, that will mean high temp should be 80. Stage 2 will open a ground loop at 82.
I'm switching the zone valve with a 2 stage Ranco controler (what else
) the heating stage is set at 78 with a 1deg diff, that means it comes on at 77 and off at 79, I'll set the tubing length so that there is no more than 1deg "drift" once off, that will mean high temp should be 80. Stage 2 will open a ground loop at 82.so your trying to maintain a temp in the sump as a test. assume your recirculating and maybe curing rock?
Well the part about there being a 150 sump was right ....the rest? .. Hmmm not sure where that came from?
why waste it? I guess I meant to day. might as well throw some rock in.
marco67
Smart is.. a box of rocks
boy thats some cool S*** there's got to be an application for it!
The system isn't stand alone yet, still testing.
I'm switching the zone valve with a 2 stage Ranco controler (what else
How are you determining appropriate length?
marco67
Smart is.. a box of rocks
why waste it? I guess I meant to day. might as well throw some rock in.
Waste what? No rock in the sump yet because it would be a PITA moving it around everytime I wanted to make a change to the tubing.
Plenty of rock on the main tank though ~500#
Jim Tansey
Well-Known Member
I like the idea of heating from the domestic hot water rather than the boiler, but in any case I wonder about the savings, have you done any estimates?
Jim
Jim
Considering that I used 2300w of electric heaters over this winter and my tank fluctuated all over the place, I figure it can't get any worse, efficiency wise.
