Greeting and my proposed set-up

[wespastor]

I believe that a picture is worth a thousand words so, let us begin the a drawing of a 55G system with a sump. There are many aspects to this system as I have worked at applying the best aspects of a few different types of system for an overall best out comr.

The goal for this post is to share my plan as it develops and to here feed back. There are many thinggs that interplay with oneanother in aquarium set-ups but for now I would like to concentrate on whether this system as designed will support healthy water.

Let us work toward not digressing into a debate of foods and other intrinsiclly related subjects.

I come from a school of thought that what ever we put into our tanks is not what we are keeping. We are keepers of water its the water that does the keeping of what we put into it.

So will this system support healthy water?

 

[Behrmon]

Let us work toward not digressing into a debate of foods and other intrinsiclly related subjects.

but...but....

 

[S Hunter]

Welcome Aboard

be careful with check valves, after some time they can get fouled by salt and the fun things that grow in our tanks

 

[Moe_K]

:w to the BRS!

 

[Aquaman_68]

welcome to the club & forum!!!

 

[Aquadiva]

Hey, welcome. :w

What were you thinking for "bio media" in the sump? Live rock?

It looks pretty good... I'm with Shawn... check valves are a flood just waiting to happen. Any way you can increase the size of the sump to make the check valve unnecessary?

 

[wespastor]

Thanks and it's good to be here

Thanks for the heads up on the c. valve. Bigger sump may be possible. Don't have a single piece equipment yet. So I don't know how much space in the storage area I'll have.

Recently moved from B'lo NY to Saco, ME about 2 hours N of Boston. I seem to be down there frequently enough. The is this one huge LFS I forget the name but it has 5700 sf od sales floor. Marine you name it its there.

So would there be any drawbacks to this system?

 

[wespastor]

What were you thinking for "bio media" in the sump? Live rock?
QUOTE]

Looks like I'll be using those ceramic tuber things looks like short noodles.

On the other hand I have asked at another forum about the difference between these and bio balls (except for the obvious) Which is Better? or is there a real difference.. I unstand thier basic use to increace bio surace area but is one truely better than the other or is it just hype from the manufactueres and opinion from the users?

What to you guys think? AS for LR keep in mind that I will be raising Dwarf Sea Horse. Hydroids are vary nasty towards them and will and do kill even the adults. So to be as safe as possibe for the ponies everything going into the tanks, i.e. sand and rock will be dead brought to live via the cycle and time.

 

[Aquaman_68]

so this tank will be just for seahorse?

 

[jbishop]

Looks like a decent setup. I would rethink the bio ball ceramic things.

 

[wespastor]

Looks like a decent setup. I would rethink the bio ball ceramic things.

Explain?

 

[wespastor]

so this tank will be just for seahorse?

Yep Just ponies. DSH

And of course a good clean-up crew.

 

[jbishop]

Explain?

Bioballs and those ceramic things have been known to cause problems in the long run. You could just put Live rock rubble.

 

[MikeG]

Explain?

They are great at processing ammonia into nitrite and nitrite into nitrate. The however can't convert nitrate into nitrogen gas which is the last step of the nitrogen process that a lot of stores or hobiests don't talk about. To do this, you need a low oxygen enviornment like deep in the poeres of live rock or in the depths of a deep sand bed. This is why it is suggested to put live rock in the sump if anything at all. The media you mention is great on fish only tanks where build up of nitrates are not as much of a concern.

I would too try to use a bigger sump like a 20L or 29 gallon. Is the footprint of the 50 gallon 36"x18"? One other reason for a bigger sump in addition to holding more water in a power outage, is to get an in sump model skimmer. That will really help with water quality and there are much better option for in sump than HOB.

Next I would get a reef ready tank or have it drilled and install an internal overflow. If the tank is not reef ready, most can be drilled on the back. The bottom is usually tempered glass so that can only be drilled by the manufacturer.

Lastly, I don't see a canister filter anywhere but you mention it a few times in the diagram. Most people will only use these to occasionally run carbon. We try not to use any sponges or other similar materials as they collect detritus very quickly and that matter immediately starts to break down and foul the water.

Hope this helps.

 

[wespastor]

They are great at processing ammonia into nitrite and nitrite into nitrate. The however can't convert nitrate into nitrogen gas which is the last step of the nitrogen process that a lot of stores or hobiests don't talk about. To do this, you need a low oxygen enviornment like deep in the poeres of live rock or in the depths of a deep sand bed. This is why it is suggested to put live rock in the sump if anything at all. The media you mention is great on fish only tanks where build up of nitrates are not as much of a concern.

I would too try to use a bigger sump like a 20L or 29 gallon. Is the footprint of the 50 gallon 36"x18"? One other reason for a bigger sump in addition to holding more water in a power outage, is to get an in sump model skimmer. That will really help with water quality and there are much better option for in sump than HOB.

Next I would get a reef ready tank or have it drilled and install an internal overflow. If the tank is not reef ready, most can be drilled on the back. The bottom is usually tempered glass so that can only be drilled by the manufacturer.

Lastly, I don't see a canister filter anywhere but you mention it a few times in the diagram. Most people will only use these to occasionally run carbon. We try not to use any sponges or other similar materials as they collect detritus very quickly and that matter immediately starts to break down and foul the water.

Hope this helps.

It does Help a lot. BTW Another thing that's not in the diagram -- and you spoke of it here brieflt oxegen free environment. I plan to build a DIY denitification chamber. A small tube will run from the overflow box to the sump. Adding more trouble for myself

I truely appreciate the candidness of your answers.

 

[MikeG]

It does Help a lot. BTW Another thing that's not in the diagram -- and you spoke of it here brieflt oxegen free environment. I plan to build a DIY denitification chamber. A small tube will run from the overflow box to the sump. Adding more trouble for myself

I truely appreciate the candidness of your answers.

I have never used or looked into denitrification chambers or reactors so I won't comment there. One thing that does work though is remote deep sand beds. These can be used to reduce and control nitrates and then just dumped and replaced if they become saturated with nutrients over time. Easier than replacing a deep sand bed in the tank. I have been planing on setting one up but haven't yet, You can see the basic idea in what Steve did here.
http://www.bostonreefers.org/forums/showthread.php?t=65881

 

[wespastor]

How Deep and foot print size would be of benefit?

 

[MikeG]

I haven't researched in about a year or so but at the time I believe the suggested minimum was about 8" deep and a lot of people use 5 gallon buckets, so the footprint doesn't need to be too big. Just remember to look into all the possibilities and decide which you like best. Always lots of different ways to accomplish the same thing in this hobby.

Obviously a refugium can help do the same thing if large enough. Much easier to have 2 buchets though and swap one out ever year or two in my opinion though if purely fior nitrate control.

 

[Gina McReeferson]

Welcome to the club, good luck with your system.

-Gina and David

 

[Miller]

Welcome!

Be sure to post photos once you have something setup and running!!!!!!!!!!!!