I Believe in Aquaforest Products!! Check out these pictures of my Acros

Coral E contains omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, as well as vitamins and amino acids. So it is a highly concentrated Acropower mix with Fuel.
 
Any insight to Compare the iodine iodide iodate reputedly contained in lugols to AF coral B? AF coral B kind of looks like kalk paste for those that haven't used it. Thanks for the assimilation of these AF products to others i use. I think my dosing rates are far less than the recommended and with these product comparison AF b:lugols, AF e:fuel etc, the only overlap I practice on a daily basis would be iodine since I dose one drop lugols daily and AF b 3x weekly


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The only other triton result that tends to show elevated levels for me other than that one copper at 7 recently is iodine slightly elevated, calcium elevated, lithium (seemingly universal). Never got a test warning on K or Fe (or F)


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No overlap ... That is if I discount any trace dosing as a result of CaRx effluent


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I'm interested in this system as well. I currently use BRS products for the big three and don't really want to change that aspect of my tank. As I understand I need to use components A,B and C if I'm not going to be using 1, 2 and 3? I think I need to get:

I've been told that I would need to use Component A, B, and C and Kalium. I'm not sure about the other additives... Any recommendations?
 
Just to the plunge on this and ordered the probiotic salt along with components 123, build, fuel, vitality, amino mix, np pro and probio f. I'll be following their guide to bring my parameters to what they recommend first. I'm using BRS's part 2 right now so we'll see how this goes.
 
Stick to the BRS products. There is no difference.
 
All salts are the same in the end. You either buy $50 salt and add $25 of additives, or you buy $75 salt and don't add anything. Its one in the same.
The cleanliness of the salt does come into play (think ash) but if you fill your tank through the old filter sock during a water change, you're good to go.
I just use plain old IO (not reef crystals) and dose manually and add additives manually. Lets me better maintain everything where I want it, and costs the same (actually, less than most) expensive salts.

If it's a good enough method for Randy Holmes, it's good enough for me.
 
I think the op is just saying how he has seen very positive results since using AquaForest product line, and is doing his best by providing pics etc. I really don't see the need to start bashing or comparing without having used this product line before.

Can you get good results from using cheaper salt? of course! but does everyone have the time to add every single trace element manually to save $2? especially when a company has already done the research to add all the elements proportionally (or so I assume).

so unless people really see the need to post comments about how their salts and methods are the best, I think a more relevant discussion will be for people who use this salt or want to use this salt and share the pros and cons etc.

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I've never seen any proof that the more expensive salts have any more of the worthwhile trace elements than IO for example. I think I paid about $20 for the last few buckets of IO I bought. I guess one could argue that you get far more trace elements per dollar using IO compared to these overpriced imported salts.

I wonder how much IO gets sent overseas, rebranded, shipped back, and sold to ignorant reefers?
 
When comparing aquaforest reef salt to reef crystal, I like AF salt better because it dissolves faster.
AF line of additives are not that expensive compared to others.



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Ok let me try to clarify my argument as to why I am advocating for Aquaforest products. I am NOT arguing that switching to their salt ALONE will benefit your tank in any way. I have tried every salt under the sun and agree that changing your salt mix will do little for you in the long run. Their salt products DO however mix quickly as others have pointed out and are cheaper than reef crystals.

As far as purchasing just a single one of their additives and expecting positive results is also madness. And if you believe I am arguing this you are wrong. Will your tank benefit from it? Sure I would like to think so. But you will NOT see the results advertised by AF. This is a system. Just like Zeovit or Tropic Marin. You need to run the entire line as instructed by the manufacturer to see the results. When I first began using AF salt I did not initially convert all of my supplements over and was only running their pro-bio salt and a product called NP pro which is a food and suspension medium which allows bacteria to say suspended in the water column, therefore consuming nutrients in your water before eventually being taken out by your skimmer. In the first month of ONLY using their salt product the only positive effects I saw were:

(1) My skimmer pulled out darker skimmate and;
(2) My corals both SPS and LPS exhibited a feeding response within minutes of the addition of new water.

Now as far as the results when running their entire line and SPS corals here are my observations and assertions:

(1) decreased mortality rates in wild and mari-cultured SPS colonies
(2) better coloration (pastel and vibrant colors)
(3) and an increase in growth. (lets be serious I am not saying you’re going to see 3 inch growth rates in a month) AND I am saying in my tank only***********

Why do I believe I am seeing these results?

(1) Components 1,2, and 3. Provide an IONIC balance when dosing Alk and Calc. Additionally they provide some 25 micronutrients corals will uptake in proportion to ALK and CALC uptake according to the manufacturer. This is the balling method which tropic marin originally began marketing with the addition of these trace elements.
(2) Nutrient control. Adding bacteria and a carbon source every day is a proven way to reduce nitrates and phosphates. Phosphates inhibit SPS growth rates. The reduction of phosphates would therefore theoretically increase growth rates. Additionally high nutrients in the water coloumn lead to darker colors in SPS and in severe cases cause browning out. For those who chase nutrient numbers or struggle keeping sps because of excess nutrients I have yet to pull out a test kit using these products because they were undetectable after a few months of using these.
(3) Their coral E contains a safe form of copper that reduces zooxanthellae in coral creating light more vibrant colors.
(4) I just like how easy and cheap the program is.

Hope this clarifies my argument.

Best,

Alex
 
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I think the op is just saying how he has seen very positive results since using AquaForest product line, and is doing his best by providing pics etc. I really don't see the need to start bashing or comparing without having used this product line before.

Can you get good results from using cheaper salt? of course! but does everyone have the time to add every single trace element manually to save $2? especially when a company has already done the research to add all the elements proportionally (or so I assume).

so unless people really see the need to post comments about how their salts and methods are the best, I think a more relevant discussion will be for people who use this salt or want to use this salt and share the pros and cons etc.

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Nobody is bashing anyone here my friend. :)

Constructive criticism and voicing of views and opinions is what gets information out, and what gets people willing to test theories rather than believe everything they read online.

With that being said, I never said my method was best ;-) just cheaper, and works as well. In my personal opinion (and many others) AF and other expensive brands like AquaVitro are overpriced and not worth it.

You'd be amazed how little time it takes to manually dose "each individual element". I use regular IO salt, and dose ESV B-Ionic 2-Part daily.
That's literally it. Once your water reaches proper ionic balance (which is also what AF does when using the full line, and why it works so well) and saturation, a potato is a potato.

Cost? $40 for 200 of salt mix, and $30 for one gallon sized jugs of ESV.
That comes to a whopping $1 per every 5g of water change (not including RO/DI that is a fraction of a cent per gallon) and less than a penny a day for dosing 17ml into my reef of ESV.

Total for me? $8.05 per month total for salt, RO/DI, and 2-Part. All parameters spot on and get great SPS growth and coloration.
 
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The big three: Calcium, Alk and Mg can be bought in bulk in solid form for cheap.
For calcium:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4680+4676+27647&pcatid=27647

For Mg:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4680+27648&pcatid=27648

If you choose Epson salt as Mg supplement, go to Costco or CVS

For Alk:
If you have Costco membership, it is available at $6 for 13 lbs
or available at supermarkets. It is Baking Soda.

For these elements, Sr, Ba, Co, Mn, Cu, Fe, Zn, Ni, and Cr as in Aquaforest 1, you are better off without them as there is no study to back up these elements actually benefit coral. Well, except Cu (copper), lol.
 
For Copper, trace amount is needed for marine invertebrates as their blood is "copper-based" as human blood is "iron-based".
Since copper level is extremely low in the ocean, marine invertebrates have to scavenge copper as much as possible so that there is no "stop-switch" for them. That is why copper become toxic when present in high concentration.
 
I know no one was bashing me guys. I just wanted to clarify what it is I was advocating all. Difference in opinions is what makes the world go round. Everyone was just focusing on the salt mix and I wanted to clarify for anyone watching the thread that that's not I believe is making the difference.
 
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