New 40breeder help

what's the return pump, and what size return is it going to?

I'm a big spaflex/rigid PVC fan, fewer changes of leaks.....just make sure you have a union to disconnect the plumbing, in case you need to clean/service/replace the pump
 
I got a Mag 5 return and it is going into 1" PVC return. Right now there is a hose connector I think where the water comes out from the pump. Should I add a little hose and connect that to the PVC or should I take hose insert off and just add something to connect the current PVC return line to the pump?

I also need to plumb my skimmer to my sump since it doesnt fit...would Spa Flex be good or should I stick to PVC?
 
a 1" return is a big return for a mag 5.

get a threaded PVC > slip, screw it on the mag5, then get a bushing to get the 1/2" to 1" size change, then tie it into your return, witha union between, in case you want to take it apart.

second question....spaflex glued is just as good as PVC.
 
If I was you I wouldn't rule out leds. For a short tank like yours it would be perfect. You could probably do it for like 300-350 and never replace a bulb.
I run a mag9 for a return and I use 3/4" pvc.
If I were to do it again is go with spa flex

Steve
 
do any stores around the Boston area sell Flex PVC/Spa Flex?

Im gonna have to take a look at all the plumbing and make sure of the diameters (I am pretty sure the previous owner used a 1" return and a Quiet One 4000).
The overflow is a 2" to a 1" going into the sump...if that matters for the return flow.
 
and forget using other t5 ballasts ie workhorse (which are still great and i currently use one), the icecaps are the cream of the crop, and although they do overdrive the bulbs a little i wouldnt worry......people were using m58 ballasts to power mh for years and they overdrove bulbs too.........ice-cap is a proven brand name and there customer service is second to none.....



.......and right now the retro kit tek(which comes with workhorse i think) is still more $$$ $440 than the tek fixture $370 with bulbs................retro- http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5_Fluorescent/Sunlight_Supply/Tek_2_Retrofit_Kits/


fixture- http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5_Fluorescent/Sunlight_Supply/Tek_Light_Fixtures/
 
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Well I like the look of the T5's but love LED's, and looking at price difference I might wait until I sell off some gear and do a DIY LED build.

Gotta hit up HD to get some tubing first so I can get this cycle going haha

The Mag 5 has a Outlet: accepts 1/2" FIPT threaded fittings. So I should get something for 1/2"-3/4" and then a coupling and then the spa flex going into my display?

Also, do I want the return into display, drain into sump or skimmer clean water tubes under water or should they be above the water level? Andddd how high should the skimmer be? As I have seen people say that water levels in sumps make a difference depending on where the skimmer is in relation to water height in sump.
 
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Well I like the look of the T5's but love LED's, and looking at price difference I might wait until I sell off some gear and do a DIY LED build.

Gotta hit up HD to get some tubing first so I can get this cycle going haha

The Mag 5 has a Outlet: accepts 1/2" FIPT threaded fittings. So I should get something for 1/2"-3/4" and then a coupling and then the spa flex going into my display?

Also, do I want the return into display, drain into sump or skimmer clean water tubes under water or should they be above the water level? Andddd how high should the skimmer be? As I have seen people say that water levels in sumps make a difference depending on where the skimmer is in relation to water height in sump.

You can plumb your return that way. Dry fit everything first, and use a little teflon tape on the threaded piece from the pump to the 1/2 fitting.

The return into your display should be at the surface, to increase surface agitation, and encourage oxygenation of your water.

Skimmers vary in their suggested heights, I would start with 8" and go up or down from there.
 
before you spend your money on a t-5 contact krystal clear aquctic's they just got some leds i seen it in person they are great for 40g breeders i was thinking of getting two for my 46 bowfront and they start $340 i believe but look em up in the sponser section. i was amazed at how much light u get off these leds its the same out put as a 150 watt MH they have a MH fixture 500 watts right over a 100 gallon rubbermaid bin they used it as a massive frag bin. its well worth it tho .
 
Well I like the look of the T5's but love LED's, and looking at price difference I might wait until I sell off some gear and do a DIY LED build.

Gotta hit up HD to get some tubing first so I can get this cycle going haha

The Mag 5 has a Outlet: accepts 1/2" FIPT threaded fittings. So I should get something for 1/2"-3/4" and then a coupling and then the spa flex going into my display?


......I dont know how the tank was set-up before and what that pvc in the pic goes to, but i run a mag 5 and use black 5/8" tubing with a union about 10" above the pump and a ball valve half-way up the back of the tank then connecting to a directional u-tube just like the one in the pic...........and it works perfect the only thing i had to do was drill a 3/16" hole a little under the water line for a syphon break and my tank only drains to the hole when the pump losses power....
 

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ok well i think i got all the info i need on plumbing this bad boy

I am more than likely going LED for this tank, so any help would be great like what things I need to do a dimmable/programmable setup and how many LEDs and everything else I would need...or should I setup a different thread for that?

Reefried: the PVC i have right now for the return is a 1" rigid pvc that goes up and does a u-turn like the pic u have going into the tank. I am thinking about adding a ball valve as it doesnt have one now, and I should probably drill the little hole under the u-turn
 
that sounds fine and yes make sure there is a syphon break somewhere under the water line.........and the rigid pvc will work i guess, and a ball valve is a good idea too, and also a union as if you have to get the pump out to service it a union will make it simple, and fast
 
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