OP
OP
ReefKeeper1699
Non-member
Yea $25 to ship it back. I'm assuming it's okay to ditch that last one as I wouldn't need to polish the water correct?
New RO unit for Xmas!!!!!
- Thread starter ReefKeeper1699
- Start date
this is me
I like turtles
Jim,
I don't think polished water is the same deionized water. I'm not a water expert but polishing sounds like an extra stage to remove whatever what's left that the RO didn't remove but leave the ion intack. Deionized removed all ion in the water.
http://www.tmasc.com/di water specs.htm
I don't think polished water is the same deionized water. I'm not a water expert but polishing sounds like an extra stage to remove whatever what's left that the RO didn't remove but leave the ion intack. Deionized removed all ion in the water.
http://www.tmasc.com/di water specs.htm
Ahh, you're talking about some fancy labratory stuff. From the article;
"E.Polishing Loop:
In small Lab DI systems most of the water is used immediately or shortly after it is made. There really is no necessity to keep re filtering the water in the containment vessel. In larger systems where you need 50 gallons always available, under pressure for rinsing and always at high quality, it is necessary to include a polishing loop in the system. The polishing loop is a series of resin filters that has the water pumped from the holding vessel though the filters and back into the containment vessel. This keeps the water at a high resistivity rate in the holding vessel. In this type of system a faucet or spray wand can be added in the loop since the water is always under pressure in the pumping loop. This is an ideal system for a small lab that requires 100-200 gallons per day of DI Water. The entire system, including pre filters, sensors, holding tank and monitors can be built into a console that provides a ready source of DI water for the Lab. The larger systems have incorporated additional instrumentation that monitors the quality of the DI water and displays it on a digital Resistivity Meter. A built in alarm also is included
The system on the left is a typical DI system Mounted in a console to feed a lab with 5 stations that require DI Water. The system contains a polishing loop that has plumbing that extends into the individual stations. At each station a final point of use .5 micron absolute filter prevents any particulates from reaching the use point.
This system is entirely mounted on a 5 ft console with all the filters and pumps easily accessible for replacement. The electronics for the system are mounted in the rear of the upper back plane. A resistivity monitor and a TDS monitor control the system and sound an alarm if resistivity drops below a certain level. This system produces up to 180 gallons of DI [18 Meg Ohm] per day and stores another 50 gallons.
The system incorporates a sink and Lab Faucet. The system may also be fitted with a sump if no drain is available nearby. The sump vessel will pump the reject product and any drain water from the sink to a nearby drain. Small ultrasonic tanks can also be installed in the system to give you a complete cleaning system on a cart. Heaters can also be added to the system to provide hot DI on demand. Special filters can be added to the loop system to provide biophage removal for medical applications.
Larger Lab systems up to 500 gallons per day are available; these systems will provide water enough for limited production cleaningof parts. They can also be designed to supply 4-5 stations within a lab to provide water to faucets or other equipment on demand. These Systems can be remote controlled by having the control panel in the lab and the DI unit in another room. The systems can also have water chillers and heaters to maintain a specific tempature of the DI water in the Loop.
Options such as point of use filters at specific stations in the lab give the water a final polish just before use."
"E.Polishing Loop:
In small Lab DI systems most of the water is used immediately or shortly after it is made. There really is no necessity to keep re filtering the water in the containment vessel. In larger systems where you need 50 gallons always available, under pressure for rinsing and always at high quality, it is necessary to include a polishing loop in the system. The polishing loop is a series of resin filters that has the water pumped from the holding vessel though the filters and back into the containment vessel. This keeps the water at a high resistivity rate in the holding vessel. In this type of system a faucet or spray wand can be added in the loop since the water is always under pressure in the pumping loop. This is an ideal system for a small lab that requires 100-200 gallons per day of DI Water. The entire system, including pre filters, sensors, holding tank and monitors can be built into a console that provides a ready source of DI water for the Lab. The larger systems have incorporated additional instrumentation that monitors the quality of the DI water and displays it on a digital Resistivity Meter. A built in alarm also is included
The system on the left is a typical DI system Mounted in a console to feed a lab with 5 stations that require DI Water. The system contains a polishing loop that has plumbing that extends into the individual stations. At each station a final point of use .5 micron absolute filter prevents any particulates from reaching the use point.
This system is entirely mounted on a 5 ft console with all the filters and pumps easily accessible for replacement. The electronics for the system are mounted in the rear of the upper back plane. A resistivity monitor and a TDS monitor control the system and sound an alarm if resistivity drops below a certain level. This system produces up to 180 gallons of DI [18 Meg Ohm] per day and stores another 50 gallons.
The system incorporates a sink and Lab Faucet. The system may also be fitted with a sump if no drain is available nearby. The sump vessel will pump the reject product and any drain water from the sink to a nearby drain. Small ultrasonic tanks can also be installed in the system to give you a complete cleaning system on a cart. Heaters can also be added to the system to provide hot DI on demand. Special filters can be added to the loop system to provide biophage removal for medical applications.
Larger Lab systems up to 500 gallons per day are available; these systems will provide water enough for limited production cleaningof parts. They can also be designed to supply 4-5 stations within a lab to provide water to faucets or other equipment on demand. These Systems can be remote controlled by having the control panel in the lab and the DI unit in another room. The systems can also have water chillers and heaters to maintain a specific tempature of the DI water in the Loop.
Options such as point of use filters at specific stations in the lab give the water a final polish just before use."
OP
OP
ReefKeeper1699
Non-member
Hmmmmm if I am going to be Deionizing my water as well will I need a resistivity monitor as well or is it really accurate relying on a color change of resin?
For instance, at work with our wire edm machine that uses a brass wire with an electrical current going through it while submerged in a liquid to cut metal, a resin reactor is important to deionize the water. This helps for a proper conductivity through the water. In this case it helps the water be more of an insulator just like an inert gas is used for welding. Used to contain the flow of current. If the water was not deionized it would be too conductive and the current used to cut the metal would also jump through the water used to cool it and short out. We need to used a resistivity meter and can't rely on accuracy of a color change of resin as the resin is already at a crappy level before the color change actually happens.
With that being said, I am curious as to what ions do to a fish tank negatively. I never really read into it and I will try to find an article. I just don't know if it has a similar issue that my EDM would have, in having ions. Or maybe ions are feeding something else.
For instance, at work with our wire edm machine that uses a brass wire with an electrical current going through it while submerged in a liquid to cut metal, a resin reactor is important to deionize the water. This helps for a proper conductivity through the water. In this case it helps the water be more of an insulator just like an inert gas is used for welding. Used to contain the flow of current. If the water was not deionized it would be too conductive and the current used to cut the metal would also jump through the water used to cool it and short out. We need to used a resistivity meter and can't rely on accuracy of a color change of resin as the resin is already at a crappy level before the color change actually happens.
With that being said, I am curious as to what ions do to a fish tank negatively. I never really read into it and I will try to find an article. I just don't know if it has a similar issue that my EDM would have, in having ions. Or maybe ions are feeding something else.
Last edited:
OP
OP
ReefKeeper1699
Non-member
So. Tds meter will read and help out with if the resin stage is still working properly?
higorc
Call me IGOR :)
I can't argue with the "big boys" (nothing but respect meant 
), But I have never gotten my RO end of my RODI unit to read 0 TDS as the DI end of it does. In my opnion, u NEED DI resines to strip those last nutrients that RO filter can't.
Good luck man, it's always exciting to get new tank stuff!!!
), But I have never gotten my RO end of my RODI unit to read 0 TDS as the DI end of it does. In my opnion, u NEED DI resines to strip those last nutrients that RO filter can't. Good luck man, it's always exciting to get new tank stuff!!!
OP
OP
ReefKeeper1699
Non-member
Perfect. Good info I will definately have resin then. We are both returning this unit and ordering the Reefkeeper one. We both like how the Reefkeeper has a lifetime warranty and they seem to really back it up. We did the math and it will cost more to add on to ours what the Reefkeeper has that we need. Thanks again, as always for all the help everyone.
Thanks Hig, this is an amazing hobby
Thanks Hig, this is an amazing hobby
Lets say a given town's tap water is 300ppm TDS out of the tap. Using a membrane that has a 98% removal rate, if everything is working properly you will end up with @ 6ppm TDS coming out of the membrane. The DI can then pull out that remaining 6ppm.
I think the lingo might confuse this a little. DI filtration means using a mix of positively and negatively charged resins so that just about anything in the water will stick to either the positive or negative resin. Once you have 0 ppm TDS it's basically pure water so there isn't much to consider past that point. The "polishing" that the article Nick (this is me) posted talks about sounds like it's for applications where absolutely pure water is needed and the polishing is to remove even the slightest dust or any other contaminant that may be picked up in or during holding. For reefkeeping, that slightest dust isn't likely to be an issue. For reefing we use RODI to ensure that we aren't importing nutrients, metals, or any other toxins that we dont' want accumulating in our systems. Typically we make up RODI and hold it in a container or barrel - it will be at or close to 0 PPM coming out of the RODI filter - then it will easily pick up a few PPM due to absorbing CO2 from the air, but this doesn't matter as a hint of Co2 in our systems is not only harmless, but also inevitable because the saltwater would tend toward eqilibrum with the atmosphere just like the stored RODI.
I think the lingo might confuse this a little. DI filtration means using a mix of positively and negatively charged resins so that just about anything in the water will stick to either the positive or negative resin. Once you have 0 ppm TDS it's basically pure water so there isn't much to consider past that point. The "polishing" that the article Nick (this is me) posted talks about sounds like it's for applications where absolutely pure water is needed and the polishing is to remove even the slightest dust or any other contaminant that may be picked up in or during holding. For reefkeeping, that slightest dust isn't likely to be an issue. For reefing we use RODI to ensure that we aren't importing nutrients, metals, or any other toxins that we dont' want accumulating in our systems. Typically we make up RODI and hold it in a container or barrel - it will be at or close to 0 PPM coming out of the RODI filter - then it will easily pick up a few PPM due to absorbing CO2 from the air, but this doesn't matter as a hint of Co2 in our systems is not only harmless, but also inevitable because the saltwater would tend toward eqilibrum with the atmosphere just like the stored RODI.
OP
OP
ReefKeeper1699
Non-member
Okay cool. When my awi Reefkeeper comes in I will tie it in to a food grade 55 gal water storage barrel. In this barrel I will place my float valve and a heater. At the bottom of the barrel I will plumb in a shutoff spout to fill my buckets and so on to bring up to the tank or I may even put the float valve upstairs in my sump level with my fill line. I have a double wall that is hollow behind my tank that is easy to access and get to to run pex tubing up . This route may be best. I'm going to have fun with this.
Only issue with the float valve in the tank is that would be limiting me from goin to the basement where the unit is to measure tds and fill buckets. I don't want to develop an out of site out of mind sence and neglect it lol.
I'll develop an RO iPhone maintance and schedule app lmao
Only issue with the float valve in the tank is that would be limiting me from goin to the basement where the unit is to measure tds and fill buckets. I don't want to develop an out of site out of mind sence and neglect it lol.
I'll develop an RO iPhone maintance and schedule app lmao
Buckeye Hydro
Non-member
I'd tell you to keep what you have, but make some changes to it. That $25 you'll spend to send it back can be spent on things you'll actually use. All you need is:
DI add on kit
TDS meter
Pressure gauge add on kit
carbon block to replace the GAC (not absolutely necessary depending
A few fittings to keep the RO drinking water in the pressurized tank from ever coming back to the DI stage.
You can make her extra happy by installing an RO drinking water faucet on the kitchen sink - and then you don't have to buy bottled water.
Russ
DI add on kit
TDS meter
Pressure gauge add on kit
carbon block to replace the GAC (not absolutely necessary depending
A few fittings to keep the RO drinking water in the pressurized tank from ever coming back to the DI stage.
You can make her extra happy by installing an RO drinking water faucet on the kitchen sink - and then you don't have to buy bottled water.
Russ
OP
OP
ReefKeeper1699
Non-member
Hmmmm a lot of good ideas . She already got me a tds meter. I'd also have to buy a float valve and I'm missing the feature to flush the membrane.
Buckeye Hydro
Non-member
Does the tds meter have auto temperature compensation (ATC)? If not, its not a good fit for this hobby.
Russ
Russ
OP
OP
ReefKeeper1699
Non-member
Probably not ha ha
Buckeye Hydro
Non-member
Check the instructions on the meter - if it has it they'll tell you. Which meter is it?
Russ
Russ
OP
OP
ReefKeeper1699
Non-member
$14 meter I highly doubt it has that lol.
Buck quick question, looking at the AWI Reefkeeper TyphoonIII that was linked earlier I this thread, looking at everything it comes with and the lifetime warrantee, do you offer anything close to this or beating it?
Buck quick question, looking at the AWI Reefkeeper TyphoonIII that was linked earlier I this thread, looking at everything it comes with and the lifetime warrantee, do you offer anything close to this or beating it?
OP
OP
ReefKeeper1699
Non-member
When I pick the chloramine one and add all options to make it have what AWI has I am getting $238 vs their $189. Before I purchase I'd just like to know what benefit I am getting for the extra $50
Similar threads
