Proposed 90tall stand and system

[go4broke44]

Last night I finally got around to buying all the wood I need for my stand, So I might as well document the process here, since there aren't too many stand-building tutorials. After browsing a bunch of different places looking at plans, I decided on this:

The hood will be 2x3's, while the stand will be 2x4's. I bought the premium fir 2x4's for the verticals, since they are slightly stronger than regular ones. I've decided on making the stand approximately 32 inches high, for a 90 gallon tall tank (Dong's old tank) which should weigh around 1050lbs when totally full. The tank is roughly 36 wide, 18 deep, and about 31-32 high, so with a 12" high hood, I figure the total system height at 6'-04". I plan on wrapping the tank with 1/4" ply, either oak or sande, and then running a 1xSomething around the top and bottom to add alittle bit of "flair", haha.

What do you guys think of this tank design? I calculated each leg to carry about 33psi of tank weight, which i think is pretty minimal. I plan on adding a 1/2" sheet of plywood on the top of the finished stand

Does anyone use styrofoam under their tank? If so, where did you buy this? I can't really think of anywhere that sells sheets of styro.

 

[wrassefan]

according to your drawing, you cannot accomodate a sump or have much usable space below

 

[go4broke44]

This is true, I plan on going sumpless. However, do you think I should turn the two center 2x4 supports 90degrees, so that their wider side faces the front, instead of facing the sides like how it is pictured?

 

[Pat H.]

I've used a similar design for my 40 breeder refugium stand(also 36x18). Looking at your design, the weight would mostly be supported by your fasteners(nails or screws?). It would be better to have the weight supported by wood. Add 2x4's along side the existing legs, having them between the upper and lower frames. Here's a pic of my stand, pretty much like your design except no center legs, (which is needed for the added weight of the 90 tall).

 

[go4broke44]

Patrick thanks for the heads up on that. I was actually considering building mine with the idea that you used, but didnt know if it would be necessary or not, considering some plans i looked at didnt have the extra bracing. I think with the 1/2" plywood on top, my design would be fine, since the weight would be more evenly dispersed, but I will probably add in the extra vertical supports, just for the sake of overbuilding rather than not, and ending up sorry. I will be using screws to put it together, my favorite fastener, haha. nice stand btw

 

[RichConley]

Yours look a lot like GARF's designs. The garf designs are pretty poor, and use a TON more wood than they need, and a ton of fasteners and such, and are still weaker than a properly designed stand. Pat (PHReef)'s stand above is a much better design, and is still a little overbuilt for the tank size (theres no reason for 2x 2x4s on a tank of 40gs), on yours though, definitely go a little heavier duty.

 

[Jim Tansey]

2" x 3" for the hood seems like a serious overkill.

Jim

 

[go4broke44]

so you would suggest the 2x 2x4's then? what are your thoughts on the cross bracing and center supports?

 

[Pat H.]

Patrick thanks for the heads up on that. I was actually considering building mine with the idea that you used, but didnt know if it would be necessary or not, considering some plans i looked at didnt have the extra bracing. I think with the 1/2" plywood on top, my design would be fine, since the weight would be more evenly dispersed, but I will probably add in the extra vertical supports, just for the sake of overbuilding rather than not, and ending up sorry. I will be using screws to put it together, my favorite fastener, haha. nice stand btw

Sounds good Thanks for the compliment.

Yours look a lot like GARF's designs. The garf designs are pretty poor, and use a TON more wood than they need, and a ton of fasteners and such, and are still weaker than a properly designed stand. Pat (PHReef)'s stand above is a much better design, and is still a little overbuilt for the tank size (theres no reason for 2x 2x4s on a tank of 40gs), on yours though, definitely go a little heavier duty.

I agree about the GARF designs being poor. Good ideas, but a little shoddy.

I like to over build things like this. Better safe than sorry If you think that stand is over built, you should see my stand for the 345 gl. It has (8) 4x6 legs

 

[go4broke44]

2" x 3" for the hood seems like a serious overkill.

Jim

Jim, I agree with you on this, and I'm basically using them for a skeleton, not really for any weight support. I've build hoods in the past out of 1x stock, and had issues with warping, so I think the 2x3's will help to contain the shape that i want. I guess i could go 2x2's (which are really only 1.5 square) but when I was browsing HD the only ones i saw were pre-cut for railings and such, and I dont know if they have any cut long enough for what i need

 

[go4broke44]

I like to over build things like this. Better safe than sorry If you think that stand is over built, you should see my stand for the 345 gl. It has (8) 4x6 legs

4x6?!?! holy cow!! You might as well just dig a hole under your tank and call it a bomb shelter, haha.

 

[RichConley]

so you would suggest the 2x 2x4's then? what are your thoughts on the cross bracing and center supports?

You may not need it if you're wrapping the stand in a plywood shell (get a lot more rigidity that way) but it will DEFINITELY make you feel better having the thicker legs, so I'd reccomend them.

Just make sure that the pieces that the tank are sitting on are sitting ON the legs, and not next to them. That way the vertical pieces are taking the weight, and its not a question of whether a screw will sheer off, or pull out, but a question of whether a 2x4 can hold weight.

As for the hood, 1x3s are probably overkill, and you're using bigger than that.

 

[go4broke44]

heres the plan, revision 1.

I doubled up on the corners, and rotated all vericals 90 degrees, so they are flat to the front and back. It would be nice to have the resources available to "pre-stress" the vertical supports, since just merely butting them up between the top and bottom frames still puts most of the stress on the fasteners (after deflection of the shorter vertical pieces). I love how all of my statics and structural engineering classes amount to me building an aquarium stand, haha. As one of my professors said "There comes a time when you have to just shoot the engineers and go build it", in reference to engineers always revising and revising, since theres always something you can change to make it better.

 

[maurod]

What program do you use to make that diagram??

 

[go4broke44]

thats autocad 2005, I exported the drawing as a bitmap file, and then cropped it in MS paint.

you can use "box" as a command in Autocad, to draw 3D objects. If you go under "view" you can select the isometric views, like you see above.

 

[ScooterNH]

I built similar

heres the plan, revision 1.

As one of my professors said "There comes a time when you have to just shoot the engineers and go build it"

I have some picts in my digi-camera, but I built somewhat similar to your design for my 90g. It's overbuilt and sturdy enough for the 90. I was climbing all over it when i built it.

With the following differences:
I used all 2x6" with as few knots as I could select.
I didn't include a center support piece on the front (since I needed to get my 55g under as a sump/fuge), but I believe I put one in the back (can't recall... have to go look when I get home).
I doubled (2 x 2x6) the long horizontal beams for front and back as well as the ends and upright corners.
I used metal deck hangers and put cross members between the longer beams. Plywood on top.
Used all-weather decking screws, and covered the flat surfaces with rubber sheeting (used for flooring I guess).
This was in case of water spills on the bare wood.

The other major difference is that mine is also bolted to the cement wall in my basement and is sandwiched between two closet areas (sort of a built-in-wall thing). It doesn't move at all. So I wasn't really be concerned about swaying side to side. You might want to consider that if yours is free standing. The back ought to be either a mostly solid piece of plywood or have some diagonal braces corner to corner for anti-sway support.


I will try to get you some pictures soon. I took some as I was constructing.


Oh, Styrofoam. yes under the tank. About 1.5" thick white type. It came with the tank when I bought it used, so just utilized the same piece. I think it's a good idea to allow the tank to settle if you have any high spots in the construction. I think I've seen sheets of this at Home Depot or Lowes as housing insulation.

 

[ScooterNH]

Good point

I've used a similar design for my 40 breeder refugium stand(also 36x18). Looking at your design, the weight would mostly be supported by your fasteners(nails or screws?). It would be better to have the weight supported by wood.

Good point on using the wood to support the tank rather than the screws. I did this on mine intentionally as well.

Basically you ought to be able to "pre-assemble" it (screwless) to some extent and have the structure able to stand on it's own. That way you are sure that your tank is being supported by the frame and not hanging on the screws.

 

[go4broke44]

ScooterNH: wow, your stand seems vastly stronger than my design. Do you think building it with 2x4's will be sufficient? considering the tank stands they sell in LFS's are made with only that crappy laminated particleboard stuff, I think my design is definitely stronger than those. I will be wrapping the entire thing with 1/4" ply, maybe ill throw a 1/2" sheet on the back though, just for added "anti-sway" support like you said.

 

[willray]

With your design 2x4's are plenty.

 

[willray]

Here's a pic of what I doing now very simular to your design.I don't know if this is what garf's is but this is a extremely sturdy structure.I used 2x4's for the inside corners and 2x3's for the corner supports.All glued and screwed.Note the center 2x4 is supporting from under the main frame.If want something for assurance put a 2x4 across at the top butted inside.