Reefer Guru's I need some help!

[LauraD]

I have a new tank, 37Gal Cube, and I am having an problem with algae on the glass. It has been running about 2 weeks,,,,has rock, sand and some softies. This is only a softie tank. I am temporarily running MH 10K dble ended pendant.
I noticed the last 3 days the glass will cover with green and after I clean it off it comes back within 1/2 hour. I also noticed that it is not green prior to my turning the lights on in the morning.
Any ideas whats wrong? Is this bad bulbs? (I dont know age of them) or New tank syndrome? or????
salt 1.25, temp 78, ph 8.1 Corals and fish seem happy.

LauraD
(This is my first solo setup guys, so please dont talk to technical to me)

 

[scavdog]

How long are you running the halides? 2 weeks is very new and I'd expect algae bloom as it is a natural cycle.

Partial water changes should help, a few snails and above all patience .

 

[LauraD]

I was running the lights 12hrs +. The algae starts soon after the lights are on in the morning. By midday the glass is green as can be. I've got snails, crabs, cleaner shrimp and hermits in there.
I will cut back the light time, water change 2x a week and be patient.
Patient is easy as long as you all tell me there isnt anything wrong!

 

[scavdog]

Laura,
Also, try not to overfeed the tank. Maybe you feed a lot, perhaps you do not. However you should be able to get away with feeding once every 2 days without negative results until the tank comes to equilibrium.

hth,
Joe

 

[LauraD]

K, Thanks Joe.

 

[Fingolfin]

I have a new tank, 37Gal Cube, and I am having an problem with algae on the glass. It has been running about 2 weeks

I do not consider myself an expert, but I would do this if I were you.

Check the calcium/magnesium level. If those levels are appropriate, coralline algaes will outcompete with diatoms to absorb the excess nutrient.

 

[KAS]

Totally agree with what Joe advised. Patience is key but it is good to check that there is nothing seriously wrong while you wait for nature to take its course. You're not feeding phytoplankton are you? I ask because this can also create a lot of green algae on the glass.
-Karen

 

[dedfish]

Are you using tap water or filtered water?

 

[LauraD]

Not using phyto, (fed a few flakes to fish only) I am using filtered RO water. calcium is 440ppm, alk 120,
Nitrite and Nitrate 0. Sound okay?

 

[NateHanson]

What are the units of your alkalinity measurement?

 

[LauraD]

Alk 120ppm (I used a test strip)

 

[nunofs]

120ppm alk is 6.7 dKh or 2.4 meq/l... it's very low. My experience matches what Fingolfin said, if you keep high levels of alk, Ca and Mg the coraline algae will take off, and the other kinds of algae will stop spreading.

Nuno

 

[NateHanson]

yep, bring the alk up. High alk and pH on the slightly high end of normal seems to help with various nusiance algaes.

 

[LauraD]

Okay. Ive never done this before so bear with me. In my "fish closet" is all kinds of stuff Ive never used. I have an additive called "Reef Builder" by Seachem says "raises carbonate alkalinity". Is this what I use? It says it will not effect my ph.
Directions say to mix 1/2 teasponn with fresh water (cup) for 40 gal tank.
Sorry I am a little gun shy,,,,,just want to be sure before i play with chemical.

 

[NateHanson]

I don't have experience with that product, but it should work.

Here's a nifty calculator you can use to figure out how much additive to use to bring your alk from its current level to a target level. Also does calcium calculations.

 

[LauraD]

Okay, I did it. Alk supplement added. Now what level am I trying to get too. Try to convert it to ppm since that is what my test kits uses. How soon should I retest and expect a change?

 

[NateHanson]

If the additive you're adding is completely dissolved first, you should be able to measure the difference as soon as the water in your system has mixed evenly throughout the sump, overflow, and tank. Maybe give it 10 minutes.

 

[NateHanson]

I'd shoot for 4.5 meq/L. But I'm not sure what the conversion is to ppm.

 

[starrfish]

Hey Laura - I used to use those test strips for Alk, but it's so difficult to convert to the typical scale. If I were you, I'd go out and get a test kit that measures in meq/L or dkh - you can convert one to the other (meq/L x 2.8 = dkh). I have used the Seachem Reef Builder in the past. The thing I don't like about it is you might be buffering up your Alk, but at the expense of your calc and ph. Have you and Jason dripped kalk in your other tank? I highly recommend dripping kalk to keep your alk, ph and calc in synch (especially for a softies tank where your calc demands are low).

HTH -
Daire

ps....my little tulip looks like it's about to split. If you have any more at the next meeting, I might be in the market....

 

[JohnK]

"after I clean it off it comes back within 1/2 hour"

I'm wondering exactly what kind of algae were talking about? That quote sounds to me like diatoms? Most other micro algae won't go away when the lights are off and won't come back so quickly. Is it green green or is it brownish? when you clean the glass is it almost powdery as it wipes away (sort of dust like blowing away as you scrape)?

If it is diatoms, then it is common in a newer tank and does often decrease as the tank becomes established. Diatoms are mainly fueled by silicate in the water and this is the limiting factor for control. I find that the first sign that my RO/DI needs new cartridges is usually in increase in silicate/diatoms. How fresh is the RO unit?

It's important to ID what your dealing with because diatom growth is not fueled by the same nutrients as other micro algaes. If it is diatoms and your RO cartridges need replacing you can actually make it worse by doing water changes. Also you usually get more silicate from make up water than other sources so the other usual strategies (reduced feeding, increased skimming) may do little to nothing to control the diatom growth.

If it is actually common green micro algae then I agree, water changes, skimming, minimal feeding, nutrient export ( growing and removing macro algea, running a refugim, mangroves.....), and tank maturity, will all help.