What you use for your auto-top off system

this is me said:
Damn, Just found out the TUNZE osmolator is out of stock and might be discontinued....I need something fast.
Where did you read it's going to be discontinued? CRA lists 3 in stock
 
I talked to one of the places I callled regarding my concern and one of them mention that it may be discontinued.
Thanks, I think I'll take a trip down to CRA sometime tomorow then.
 
Here are what I think are the best systems. I use the Reef Fanatic Level Controller w/2 Float Switches. I set the second switch a little higher in the sump to shut the pump off just incase the first switch sticks.

SpectraPure Single Tank Liquid Replenisher (LLC-S)
http://www.spectrapure.com/St_alc_p1.htm

AquaMedic Aquaniveau Level & Refill Control
http://www.aqua-medic.de/seawater/en/18/aquaniveau/

Tsunami AT1 Top Off System
http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=17525&cat=0&page=1

Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=TZ4111

Reef Fanatic Level Controller w/2 Float Switches
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...ROD&Product_Code=RF-RFLC&Category_Code=Dosers
 
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I use kalk and straight RO top off together so as to avoid seasonal changes in kalk dosing (evaporation rate).

My set up uses a resivor above the kalk reactor and sump, but across the room. The res is fed via float valve with auto shut off on the RO unit. The res then feeds a float valve in the sump to maintain a consistent level. The same feed off the res also feeds a kalk reactor that runs using a peristaltic pump on a timer set to almost keep up with evaporation.

This way a consistent amount of kalk dosing is maintained year round, and the tank stays topped off at the same time avoiding seasonal fluxuations in kalk dosing. I can also set the kalk timer so that it drips a bit more at night to compensate for PH swing with the lights off.

I used to drip kalk through a float valve but found that it needed frequent cleanings or it would clog up and I'm lazy so I prefer this current set up.
 
I use a Ultrlife Float Switch. This one is similar the Autotopoff, and Floatswitches where it incoporates a highly senstive reed switch. The float can be reversed for high or low level control. It can control a wide range of pumps maxijet 400 - MAG Drive 1800 of necesary.

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...oduct_Code=ULTRA-FLOATSW&Category_Code=Dosers

20' of Horizontal head realy isnt much as long as you can get a bit of gravity to work in your favor. Keep in mind that if you set it with a slight downward pitch you can easily reduce that head to work like a drain.

This will work in your application! you will just need an extension cord.
 
Float switches make me nervous for this reason from floatswitches.com :
"5) [if] you clean the bottom switch every month or so,
you should have a pretty reliable set-up."

I use an aqualifter pump with a seven day digital timer set to run at 7 minute intervals through a 24 hr period to match typical evaporation with kalkwasser.

Should add, it's a $20 setup and hasn't failed in 18 months.
 
Here are some illustrations ....

First picture shows the actual Float Switch.

attachment.php


Second picture will demonstrate your application the glass tank is your sump and the submersible pump will be where your TO resevoir will be. ...

It can very easily utilize an extension cord to travel the distance of 20' as in your application. The hose over the top of the chair demonstrates how you can get a bit of gravity to work in your favor. Though there is 7' of hose there is only actually 3' of head (pump to top of chair) the rest (4') is pulled by gravity like a drain.

So a maxi jet 1200 in this application is more then capable of returning water to the sump even if you stretched that 4' out to 15'. Gravity will still pull it and the pitch could probably be as little as 1/4' (or less) per foot which is what most plumbers pitch theyre drain pipes at.

attachment.php
 

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Shallowwaters said:
I use an aqualifter pump with a seven day digital timer set to run at 7 minute intervals through a 24 hr period to match typical evaporation with kalkwasser.

Should add, it's a $20 setup and hasn't failed in 18 months.


That's exactly what I am going to do also Mark, glad to hear another person does it and has had no problems.
 
I have been running my top off for two years and never had it overflow.

For one my top resevoir can only hold 16 gallons (FW no kalk) ... my sump can hold and additional 20 (40 breeder) and becasue in the early days with troubleshooting my ETSS skimmer overflowing I have pumped 16 gallons of FW, into my 130 gallon sytem, emptying the top off into the sump with no ill effect on the tank.

The biggest drawback is the suction cup that holds the flot in place but that can easily be rectified by making a bracket.

(The clear tub in the background to the right of the chair is my actual TO Resevoir)

Len
 
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lactrain said:
Here are some illustrations ....

First picture shows the actual Float Switch.

attachment.php


Second picture will demonstrate your application the glass tank is your sump and the submersible pump will be where your TO resevoir will be. ...

It can very easily utilize an extension cord to travel the distance of 20' as in your application. The hose over the top of the chair demonstrates how you can get a bit of gravity to work in your favor. Though there is 7' of hose there is only actually 3' of head (pump to top of chair) the rest (4') is pulled by gravity like a drain.

So a maxi jet 1200 in this application is more then capable of returning water to the sump even if you stretched that 4' out to 15'. Gravity will still pull it and the pitch could probably be as little as 1/4' (or less) per foot which is what most plumbers pitch theyre drain pipes at.

attachment.php

Thanks alot. Can I cut the black cord and extend it? It's just a regular wire right?
 

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Shallowwaters said:
Float switches make me nervous for this reason from floatswitches.com :
"5) [if] you clean the bottom switch every month or so,
you should have a pretty reliable set-up."

I use an aqualifter pump with a seven day digital timer set to run at 7 minute intervals through a 24 hr period to match typical evaporation with kalkwasser.

Should add, it's a $20 setup and hasn't failed in 18 months.

Very interesting. A buddy just called and he has a similar set up using a float switch with the aqualifter.I'm going to his place to check it out.
That does make sense, using a timer to turn on the pump at some interval and shut it off. But what if the timer fail? But then agian, the float switch can also fail like everything else. Maybe I'll have the float switch and the timer.
 
Thanks alot. Can I cut the black cord and extend it? It's just a regular wire right?

Im not sure what black cord your talking about.

But I wouldnt cut any cord for any reason and splice though you may be more confident then I ... Just buy a longer cord and use electrical tape to tape the connections to protect them from Moisture
 
You can save yoursel,f a lot of money by making your own. I bought 4 float switches from eBay, I used 2 for my top off and I still have an additional 2 to use if they ever fail. The idea behind 2 is that you have a safety backup. If the first one fails and the pump continues to go you have a secondary to shut it off. I have now made two of these, the second was only to glorify the first one. I use an aqualifter pump, but I am sure you can use another type if you want. the wiring is easy, and its fun to make something yourself.
 
this is me said:
But what if the timer fail? But then agian, the float switch can also fail like everything else. Maybe I'll have the float switch and the timer.

The beauty is that a failure to top-off is nowhere near as bad as an overflow that will happen in a short period when you're at work at great expense for clean-up.

I just don't see the wisdom of messing with backup float switches for float switches, dependant on 9 volt batteries, etc. Plus, I a have large sump and the float switch sensitivity is not fine enough to keep a constant level.

But I do see the wisdom in ReefFiller dosing pumps running 24/7 set to match evaporation. This is one level better than my current DIY and I have a new double-head pump sitting in a box. I planned to use the other head for my calcium reactor.

Eventually, calicium does build up in Aqualifter pumps- like over four to six months.
 
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i use a reeffanatic(threw the suction cups for the switches in the trash and hard mounted the switches of which there are 2 just in case) which controls a peristaltic pump and kalk stirrer
 
Shallowwaters said:
The beauty is that a failure to top-off is nowhere near as bad as an overflow that will happen in a short period when you're at work at great expense for clean-up.

I just don't see the wisdom of messing with backup float switches for float switches, dependant on 9 volt batteries, etc. Plus, I a have large sump and the float switch sensitivity is not fine enough to keep a constant level.

But I do see the wisdom in ReefFiller dosing pumps running 24/7 set to match evaporation. This is one level better than my current DIY and I have a new double-head pump sitting in a box. I planned to use the other head for my calcium reactor.

Eventually, calicium does build up in Aqualifter pumps- like over four to six months.


A backup is a safeguard, I don't think it has ever actually had to function, but what if? the backup will keep you safe from the overflow you are so worried about.

You would be amazed by how fine the switches will actually keep your sump, you may think it can't, but it does.

Aqualifter pumps last about a year, and it takes 10 minutes to switch them up.

But in the end its all about what you are comfortbale with, so everyone will have something they are comfortable with.
 
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