ICH?

[MarkSzy]

I got this guy a few weeks ago and know it was in a healthy system, I only have two clown fish and one blenny in my 200g tank with a UV sterilizer. the fish is eating like a pig but, feeding flake, pellets and algae. i only have inverts and fish, if it does look like ICh can i treat in my tank?

 

[Zeefishies]

Use Medic from seachem.
Its reef safe.
I've used it and it worked for me hope this helps

 

[PSU4ME]

There is no in tank treatment that works for ich, sorry to say.

The only way to rid your fish of ich are through measures that require you to take the fish out of your display and run Copper, CP or TTM. You would need to treat all fish or it won’t work. You also need to let the display go fallow for 76 days (less if you raise temps).

Or you can try to manage ich in the tank.

@Humblefish is a great resource and his forum is full of incredible articles and stickies if you’re interested to learn more.

 

[PSU4ME]

Use Medic from seachem.
Its reef safe.
I've used it and it worked for me hope this helps

Please don’t use this, it does not rid your tank or fish of ich

 

[CapeReefer]

+1 for what @PSU4ME said

 

[MarkSzy]

There is no in tank treatment that works for ich, sorry to say.

The only way to rid your fish of ich are through measures that require you to take the fish out of your display and run Copper, CP or TTM. You would need to treat all fish or it won’t work. You also need to let the display go fallow for 76 days (less if you raise temps).

Or you can try to manage ich in the tank.

@Humblefish is a great resource and his forum is full of incredible articles and stickies if you’re interested to learn more.

I read a big article Humblefish has on another forum.

I think my biggest issue would be catching the fish, it hides any time I get near the tank.

 

[kgstei]

I believe the club has fish traps you can borrow.

 

[PSU4ME]

Yes, that is a challenge but if you get a good trap and let him get used to it I think it’ll happen over time.

I’ll say this, 99% of people manage ich in their tank because a 100% ich free tank is like a unicorn…….having to QT (properly) everything that goes in your tank is a tall task. In a healthy tank, the fish are able to live with it, showing some cysts every now and then.

What I think is wicked risky is buying new fish from somewhere other than a QT vendor. This fish could bring in a multitude of disease that could wipe out all your fish in a day, think velvet.

So me personally, I buy/have/do myself only QT fish and inverts but I roll the dice on ich because I don’t QT my sticks. I dip and scrub the piss out of them (and replug) but it’s still a gamble.

 

[MarkSzy]

Yes, that is a challenge but if you get a good trap and let him get used to it I think it’ll happen over time.

I’ll say this, 99% of people manage ich in their tank because a 100% ich free tank is like a unicorn…….having to QT (properly) everything that goes in your tank is a tall task. In a healthy tank, the fish are able to live with it, showing some cysts every now and then.

What I think is wicked risky is buying new fish from somewhere other than a QT vendor. This fish could bring in a multitude of disease that could wipe out all your fish in a day, think velvet.

So me personally, I buy/have/do myself only QT fish and inverts but I roll the dice on ich because I don’t QT my sticks. I dip and scrub the piss out of them (and replug) but it’s still a gamble.

Whats killing me is this is only my third fish that was showing no issues and living happy in the tank i got it from, a very well known reefer. my clowns are showing no sign and i'm running my UV at the parasite flow recommended by the MFG.

 

[Mike Lemming]

There is no in tank treatment that works for ich, sorry to say.

The only way to rid your fish of ich are through measures that require you to take the fish out of your display and run Copper, CP or TTM. You would need to treat all fish or it won’t work. You also need to let the display go fallow for 76 days (less if you raise temps).

Or you can try to manage ich in the tank.

@Humblefish is a great resource and his forum is full of incredible articles and stickies if you’re interested to learn more.

+1!!!

 

[Humblefish]

I can't be sure from the photos, but Hippo Tangs are notorious for getting viral/bacterial growths which look A LOT like Ich: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/bacterial-tufts-viral-nodules.6799/

 

[MarkSzy]

I can't be sure from the photos, but Hippo Tangs are notorious for getting viral/bacterial growths which look A LOT like Ich: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/bacterial-tufts-viral-nodules.6799/

thank you for this, that is looks exactly like what is going on. So I should just keep up with lots of good food and keep my water clean? I give it fresh red OGO because that's what I have in my refugium but can get NORI tonight. I also feed PE Mysis flake along with frozen Mysis. would you suggest anything else?

 

[Humblefish]

thank you for this, that is looks exactly like what is going on. So I should just keep up with lots of good food and keep my water clean? I give it fresh red OGO because that's what I have in my refugium but can get NORI tonight. I also feed PE Mysis flake along with frozen Mysis. would you suggest anything else?

I would add Beta-glucan to the feed. There are directions on how to do that here: https://humble.fish/vitamins-herbal-remedies/

 

[Cpage101]

If yo can get a better close up photo it may help. @Humblefish may be right but coming from a guy right here who lost 90% of his fish to velvet. The best practice is to QT and observe at least 30 days before tossing him in your tank especially 200G which will be an adventure to catch him. I like to run all tangs through copper power treatment then 3 more weeks of observation. Just my 2 cents coming from experience. BTW even some of the best vendors really don’t complete full QT but may only run low levels of CU in their system to suppress outbreaks.

 

[MarkSzy]

If yo can get a better close up photo it may help. @Humblefish may be right but coming from a guy right here who lost 90% of his fish to velvet. The best practice is to QT and observe at least 30 days before tossing him in your tank especially 200G which will be an adventure to catch him. I like to run all tangs through copper power treatment then 3 more weeks of observation. Just my 2 cents coming from experience. BTW even some of the best vendors really don’t complete full QT but may only run low levels of CU in their system to suppress outbreaks.

I totally understand, I should QT everything. I rushed this one because I don’t have a QT setup yet. The fish is eating like crazy, after putting nori in today it has been swimming more then every. I am feeling hopeful that it is just stress and will recover. I will make sure to QT the rest of my fish so this doesn’t happen again.

 

[this is me]

If you bought the fish some another member that has had it in his system for while, don’t sweat it. Feed it and the fish will build immunity for it.
For a 200G, that means you’ll have likely 20-30 fish? Are you going to QT every single one of them? Unless you’re committed to do that, it’s no point of QT a select few and not the rest.
Feed the fish. Losing a couple fish is not uncommon. When you can accept that, you’ll be much better.

 

[nilaydeshmukh]

Use Medic from seachem.
Its reef safe.
I've used it and it worked for me hope this helps

I think Medic is by Polyp Lab (not Seachem). I love most products by Polyp Lab and read good reviews about it. . . . but not sure how effective it is, don't have a first hand experience. Other in tank treatments are too risky. Like others said, a 100% Ich free tank is a tall dream. Only thing in my opinion that helps in long-term is a good size UV Sterilizer. It can't ever completely get rid of it (because you cant expect 100% of tank water to flow through it) but it keeps things under control and doesn't let the tank get overwhelmed by Ich and allows fish to fight back and develop resistance . . . my 2 cents

 

[MarkSzy]

If you bought the fish some another member that has had it in his system for while, don’t sweat it. Feed it and the fish will build immunity for it.
For a 200G, that means you’ll have likely 20-30 fish? Are you going to QT every single one of them? Unless you’re committed to do that, it’s no point of QT a select few and not the rest.
Feed the fish. Losing a couple fish is not uncommon. When you can accept that, you’ll be much better.

I agree, I kind of panicked but I know the fish was in great heath when I got it. I didn’t QT my first few because I don’t have much in the tank.

 

[this is me]

All it takes is a fish that you didn’t QT or a piece of rock or corals(LPS) that has the parasites and/or eggs on it to infect the tank.
Having the UV will help from an outbreak and let the fish build some immunity. I don’t want a bunch of wussy fish that can’t cope with an incoming piece of coral from the ocean. Most corals can be dipped for bugs and whatnot but I don’t think most people actually QT their corals for 6-12weeks or whatever it takes for ich to die. QT-ing fish is one thing but QT-ing corals basically requires another whole reef set up.

 

[MarkSzy]

All it takes is a fish that you didn’t QT or a piece of rock or corals(LPS) that has the parasites and/or eggs on it to infect the tank.
Having the UV will help from an outbreak and let the fish build some immunity. I don’t want a bunch of wussy fish that can’t cope with an incoming piece of coral from the ocean. Most corals can be dipped for bugs and whatnot but I don’t think most people actually QT their corals for 6-12weeks or whatever it takes for ich to die. QT-ing fish is one thing but QT-ing corals basically requires another whole reef set up.

I doubt many people QT corals because of that fact. I do have a 50watt Pentair UV to help control viruses and a flow meter in line.