Question for those that top-off with kalk

stingythingy45

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Have you ever had your alk and calcium parameters creep up quickly due to excess evaporation in winter?I also run a wood stove in the basement,so I'm sure this helped.
Seems my alk tested at 12 dkh (Elos)(API).
And my calcium is at 500 ppm.(Elos),(Salifert)
I've been slowly losing a pink birds nest coral from bleaching from the bottom to the tips.I would imagine this could have started the problem
I've since just filled my top off with just plain ro/di and will let the parameters come down slowly.
 
I have been topping off with it for over a year, and never had that happen. I have a wood stove that runs 24/7 about 6' away from it. I have had other issues, but never that.

Good Luck derek
 
I have been topping off with it for over a year, and never had that happen. I have a wood stove that runs 24/7 about 6' away from it. I have had other issues, but never that.

Good Luck derek

Huh that's odd,thanks for replying,Derek.
I mix my kalk in a 20 gallon rubbermaid at 2 tbs to one gallon ro/di.I have a lot of precipitation on the bottom of the container.
Maybe I need to put it,rinse it and start from scratch,then do a water change.
 
I would not ever top off with kalk without some sort of failsafe to limit the total possible dose. For example, what happens if a skimmer floods and dumps a couple of gallons out of the system? Without something to interrupe the kalk the entire system gets nuked.

Simple solution - put a timer between the top off pump and the ATO sensor. If the top off pump normally runs for 6 hours per day, set the timer so it cannot run more than 6.5 hours.
 
I have played around with dripping 24/7, say 1 drop ever 3 seconds. As long as this is less than the evap rate you are good to go....... The rest of the evap would be picked up with the ATO
 
That's how I do it as well, set drip rate with ATO seperate to make up the difference.
 
I would not ever top off with kalk without some sort of failsafe to limit the total possible dose. For example, what happens if a skimmer floods and dumps a couple of gallons out of the system? Without something to interrupe the kalk the entire system gets nuked.

Simple solution - put a timer between the top off pump and the ATO sensor. If the top off pump normally runs for 6 hours per day, set the timer so it cannot run more than 6.5 hours.

My skimmer is in the sump.
I have an auto top off switch in the sump that calls for an aqaulifter pump to take the saturated lyme water from the 20 gallon rubbermaid.
The take up hose from the aqualifter sit about a foot from the bottom of the container.
It drips pretty slowly when topping off.
I think my mistake was dosing 2 part along with the kalk.This I did during the summer months as evaporation is slow during humid days.
 
The birds nest coral and a candy cane coral were looking rough for a while.But I figured they just needed more light and then were reacting to the new Phoenix bulbs.
Looks like the birds nest will be a loss.All the other corals look fine.
I'm just going to top off with straight ro/di and maybe do a 10%water change.
 
I have my top off connected to a lab grade peristaltic pump. it comes on often throughout the day, maybe thats why my acros dont grow??????
 
I have my top off connected to a lab grade peristaltic pump. it comes on often throughout the day, maybe thats why my acros dont grow??????

My Acros grow like a weed.
But,Birdnest coral,green/pink it doesn't matter.Those are the bane of my reefer existence.
 
My tank is about 10 feet away from a wood stove. It has seen a lot of use lately. The tank hasn't really seen an unexpected PH shift. If anything it is lower than I'd like it. Since winter set in and the doors/windows have been shut, PH has dropped very slightly

Tested my Ca (400) and Alk (9dkh) last night. My mag was a bit low at around 1200. PH usually sits between 8.0 and 8.15. I just started dripping Kalk last night. Right now I am at 8.31 which is near my target. I am trying to kick it up a bit and keep it around 8.3-8.4. I have had a touch of red slime algae and what may be a small patch of biopsys. I am in nutrient control mode, and am going to try to keep PH and Mag up and see if it helps any.

My birdsnest has been growing like mad. One Paly is upset, but mostly due to a nearby anemone. The only coral problems I have had are with Zoas. They seem to just not like me. My last remaining colony out of some three is slowly fighting/melting. My Palys are just fine though. Unsure what it is. Maybe chemical warfare going on. I have a forest of Kenya Trees. Unsure if they may be doing something. I don't think toe zoa losses have anything to do with general water params.
 
This is why I have a second pH probe on my reefkeeper (one in calcium reactor, one in tank). Calcium reactor helps drop pH and keep the kalkwasser in check. When pH is at normal ranges, a peristaltic pump hooked up to my resevoir pushes RO/DI to my PM kalkwasser reactor, then to the tank. When pH in the tank gets too high, top-off is dosed by a second pump directly from the RO/DI res. When the pH drops too low (when evap is low and no kalk is keeping calcium reactor in check), my calcium reactor pump shuts off (eventually shutting off the co2 solenoid as well). This is probably the most overly cautious failsafe you can have, albeit the most expensive.
 
Also,

The reason I am so cautious is because I only run a 40 breeder with a 20 sump. If I have a kalkwasser or calcium reactor overdose it will crash my tank QUICK. I didn't want to give up the kalkwasser/calcium reactor combo because they work so well together (although overkill for such a small tank).
 
Been running Kalk for about 4 days now. First time I have used it. Working wonderfully. Just drip dosing (about 1 drop ever 4 seconds) with a kalk mix of 2tsp per gallon with ~15-20ml of vinegar to the kalk before adding water. My PH has been rock steady. I've been testing daily. Alk is staying solid at 9 and calcium is at 440. I am still VERY watchful for overdose though as I have been accustomed to dosing 2-part maybe twice a week in the past.. my params were good then, but PH was lower than I'd prefer.

I can certainly see how the drip doser can clog up. The drip outlet is crusty after just a few days.

Sometime in the future I'd like to shift to a reactor setup similar to what Conlius describes tied into my controller. The more it can be monitored/automated/controlled by a controller, the better. But yes, the sacrifice is the up front cost. Well.. we always have to aim for something. I'll just get there in stages.

I'm having fun though figuring out how to regulate and monitor all these parameters. A lot of paths one can take. It always comes down to how much one wants to be involved in upkeep. A balance of cost vs labor.
 
Here is the best explanation I found out there. I didn't write this.
I just started doing kalk/vinegar, so I personally don't have any long term experience with it.


"When Calcium Hydroxide solution (Kalkwasser) is slowly dripped into your aquarium, it captures free Carbon Dioxide present in the tank water and converts it to Bicarbonate ions (which is a good thing), like this:
Ca++ + 2(OH-) + 2(CO2) <==> Ca++ + 2(HCO3-)

If you drip too fast or if there is not enough Carbon Dioxide available in the water, your shiny new Bicarbonate ions will be converted to Carbonate ions (a bad thing), like this:

Ca++ + 2(OH-) + 2(HCO3-) <==> Ca++ + 2(CO3--) + 2 H2O

The Carbonate ions formed will make the Ca++ you are trying to add to your tank get wasted by the useless precipitation of Calcium Carbonate -- the white stuff you are seeing.

So, too rapid addition of Kalk may actually cause the Calcium and Alkalinity in your tank to go DOWN instead of UP (a bad thing), like this:

Ca++ + 2(HCO3-) + Ca++ + 2(OH-) <==> 2 CaCO3 + 2 H2O

In the above reaction, a Calcium ion and two Bicarbonate ions from the aquarium combine to form solid calcium carbonate -- the white stuff you are getting in your tank, which is really just a kind of sand.

This can happen even with a slow drip of Kalk if there is not enough CO2 in your water -- something you can't easily control.

To avoid this, try mixing and adding your Kalkwasser like this: pour 15ml of 5% Acetic Acid (or ordinary Distilled White Vinegar from the grocery store -- same thing) into a 1 liter (1 quart) container. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of lab-grade Ca(OH)2 (or commercial Kalkwasser mix) in the Acetic Acid, and then dilute to 1 liter (1 quart) volume with either RO/DI water, or even tank water.

15 ml is more Vinegar than some people are comfortable with, but I use it constantly with no problems. There should be no sediment in the mixture, or just a little bit at most. You can let the sediment settle out if you don't like the white flakes in your tank. I just drip the liquid and the sediment both into my tank.

Dissolving the Kalk powder in the Vinegar first will accomplish several very good things.

First, it will get more Calcium ions (Ca++) into the solution because you are dissolving the Ca(OH)2 in an acid instead of water, and forming Calcium Acetate, which exists as a dissociated equilibrium of free Calcium ions and Acetate ions.

Second, the Acetic Acid (Vinegar) provides an equivalent of all the CO2 you need to avoid precipitating the newly-added Calcium ions as useless white Calcium Carbonate powder.

Third, after all the cool Calcium ion chemistry is over, the leftover Acetate ions from the broken-down Vinegar leaves you with free organic Carbon in the water that feeds the bacteria in your tank so that it converts more poisonous Nitrates to NO2 gas (a very good thing).

Adding Vinegar in Kalkwasser is one of the few win-win situations for reefers -- it has a great up side and I've yet to encounter a down side to doing it. I don't know why so few reefers do it -- lack of understanding of the chemistry behind it maybe -- but a lot more are starting now that some respected reef writers have discovered it and have recommended it and even written up detailed instructions for it.

By the way, you should check your pH before and after you do this the first few times to make sure it is not affected by the process. It should not be a problem. Also, if you don't already have them, get and learn to use Salifert test kits for Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium. The levels of all of these are related and affected by dripping Kalk.

Good luck."
 
I have a 30 gal barrel set up like a kalk reactor, running off my Apex. There is a ton of kalk in the barrel, and I top it off every few days with RODI. I have a mag7 in the barrel for mixing, it is programmed to come on for 1 min, 4 times a day. I have an aqualifter, with the intake hose running through the cover of the barrel, and through a piece of styrofoam, weighted on the underside, so the hose is always just a few inches under the surface. The aqualifter is programmed to come for 1 min at a time, at 4 min intervals, with the last program statement turning it off if PH is greater than 8.07. So the aqualifter is dosing for a minute at a time, every 4 minutes, but stops when the system reaches the target PH. I also have a seperate fresh RODI topoff tank, which barely runs, but it is set to top off the system twice a day via a maxijet controlled by a sump float switch plugged in to my EB8, and it is only allowed to run for 1 min, twice a day. So it can only add so much, and I have plenty of time to notice any problems, like the sump being excessively low due to a skimmer overflow etc.

I would not want my kalk setup to be the only topoff system, so I set this up to limit the ammount it can deliver, which is pretty close to the ammount I evaporate, then the seperate freshwater topoff takes over to make up the rest.

The large volume of my system allows me to be less precise in the dosing/topoff method, as it takes more to cause a swing, but maybe it will give you some ideas on how to setup your own.
 
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