Question for you big tank owners with closed loops

[paulthomas]

I was originally going to have the overflow the entire length but just threw something in there. I was actually going to possibly shorter. Any recommendation Liam? I am thinking the whole length will cause more surface skimming.

Wouldn't you be strengthening the back panel and sides a little with running the OF the whole length? You'd get more surface skimming plus those open areas on the ends are pretty limited to what you can do there. Well, you could place a return in each one.

 

[Kevin McG]

Wouldn't you be strengthening the back panel and sides a little with running the OF the whole length? You'd get more surface skimming plus those open areas on the ends are pretty limited to what you can do there. Well, you could place a return in each one.

Just came up with a new idea! I'll try and model it up tomorrow and post some shots. I think you guys will like for sure!

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Overflows

I was originally going to have the overflow the entire length but just threw something in there. I was actually going to possibly shorter. Any recommendation Liam? I am thinking the whole length will cause more surface skimming.

You could also extend the overflow on each side to the ends of the tank with "false" compartments that can hide Tunze Streams or other types of powerheads. Basically the functional overflow ends where it is indicated on your diagram with the ends acting as partitions between the center overflow and the pump-holder compartments on each side. You can even angle the pumps at the best pointing angle. In addtion you could splitthe overflow into 2 or more with additional compartments for hiding powerheads.

 

[Kevin McG]

You could also extend the overflow on each side to the ends of the tank with "false" compartments that can hide Tunze Streams or other types of powerheads. Basically the functional overflow ends where it is indicated on your diagram with the ends acting as partitions between the center overflow and the pump-holder compartments on each side. You can even angle the pumps at the best pointing angle. In addtion you could splitthe overflow into 2 or more with additional compartments for hiding powerheads.

That's kinda the idea I was planning under the overflow itself.

What I was planning for that 1' area on each side of the overflow pictured above will have a angled piece that will go into the back corner so the tank making the overflow essentially the entire 6' span. I am going to model up a few different version tomorrow if I get some time.

The possibilities are endless since I am going to be machining all the overflow pieces myself

 

[Liam]

here's one from the past,i made the front plate longer to hide retruns ,wiring,powerheads if you wanted to.
http://bostonreefers.org/forums/showthread.php?t=7704&page=3

 

[joefitz]

I have a closed loop on my tank, which has similar dimensions to the one you are talking about (mine is 6x3x2.5). I'd definitely agree -- no closed loop. Not that mine has really caused any problems...I just think you can accomplish what you generally want in most tanks without it and save some money too boot (on electricity at least, although the ampmaster I use is better than many).

My tank is viewable on three sides and I think the closed loop helps me in that regard. The two outlets come up from the bottom towards the 'far' (viewable) end of the tank (intake is in the overflow), and then tee off so there are actually four outlets. It all helps me get different flow at that end of the tank that would be challenging to achieve (nicely) without a closed loop.

My return goes through an octopus to eight different locations (four coming in through the overflow wall and four coming down from pipes that run along the euro-bracing and dump at the surface)...but my two Tunze Streams are probably the 'dominant' flow.

I really like the flow patterns in the tank...nothing incredibly strong and a great mix that isn't purely uni-directional.

I like the idea of using the overflows to hide the powerheads and wish I had thought about doing that when I spec'ed my tank out. The good news to remember though is that with the depth you are talking about (3-4') I really can't see how your focus would ever be on those pumps with everything else in the tank!

Speaking of depth, it is awesome having at least 3'...but I'd say only 3'. Anything more and you can't reach the center of the tank very well at all.

I have a 30" depth which visually I prefer, but from a maintenance standpoint a 24" depth is soooooo much easier. I'm 6' tall and it is a ROYAL PITA to reach the bottom of my tank, and nearly impossible in the middle area. I'd probably still go 30" though because visually it is so much nicer.

Anyway, I still think the 'perfect' tank is 8x3x2.5 and if you absolutely cannot go 8', then I'd do 7' 12". ;-) But 6' is pretty nice too.

Have you started designing the fishroom already?

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Hidden Tunzes

Here are two pictures of the overflows I designed and built for my tank. The first picture shows a Tunze Stream protruding from the overflow on an angle that was selected based on the position of the overflow and the tank dimensions. Note that I did not need to glue the pump in. I just removed the back cover and used it as a template to cut the opening for the pump as tight as possible so that the Stream fits in and stays put. The second picture shows the inside of the overflow with the Tunze Stream in the false compartment. I first built one of the boxes from cardboard to check all my dimensions and to insure that the Tunze Streams would fit. Then after a few adjustments, I built the real thing. I hope this helps!

 

[jbishop]

Thats pretty cool Chuck.

 

[Kevin McG]

Yes very slick Chick ::


Here is a few shots of the version with the full length overflow

 

[Kevin McG]

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[jbishop]

Very neat. should do just the trick for surface skimming.

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Cool!

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Should work great! Good luck.

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Thats pretty cool Chuck.

Thanks, I used plenty of the thick Weld On in the inside to ensure a leak-proof box.

 

[afboundguy]

Man those tunze overflows are awesome...

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Thanks

Man those tunze overflows are awesome...

The overflows make it easy to mount and also to remove the pumps for cleaning/service. They pumps essentially take up the same room as a Vortech outside of the overflows.

 

[Kevin McG]

Well got the tank quote and looks like I'll be possibly going with the 25" tall instead of 28"
-------------------------------------------------------

72 x 36 x 28 tall glass aquarium $ 1600.00

Starphire front $ 300.00
2 holes $ 50.00
-------------------
Total $ 1950.00

========================
72 x 36 x 25 tall glass aquarium $ 790.00

Starphire front $ 138.00
2 holes $ 50.00
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Total $ 978.00