Loud sump help
- Thread starter janda
- Start date
Bao
Non-member
Hello all,
How big is the your Reverse Durso standpipe? It is recommended in the link on the first page to used 2" standpipe. I looked all over homedepot and couldn't find a Coupling "hub to hub" 2" to 1" at all. is a reducer from 2" to 1" exist at all?
So how can I make a Reverse Durso with 2" standpipe and attach it to the 1" hole of my drain?
thanks
How big is the your Reverse Durso standpipe? It is recommended in the link on the first page to used 2" standpipe. I looked all over homedepot and couldn't find a Coupling "hub to hub" 2" to 1" at all. is a reducer from 2" to 1" exist at all?
So how can I make a Reverse Durso with 2" standpipe and attach it to the 1" hole of my drain?
thanks
For the reducer, you should be able to find some combination of two to go from 1" to 2" (ie 1" to 1.5", then 1.5" to 2"). I also think I've seen 1" to 2" at HD in the past, but I could be wrong. Sometimes it's just a mess in the plumbing isle and you have to do a lot of looking to find what you need. FWIW, 1" to 2" does exist, it just might be tough to find locally. Here's a link for a sch 80 non threaded reducer.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/search.asp?search=26058&x=16&y=12
Another option is sometimes you can find some strange PVC parts like the one in the front in the pic I posted, it's a 2" body with a 1.5" coming out at 45 deg, which worked perfectly for my application.
In the end I think it depends a lot on how much flow will be going through the drain. Using all 1" on a reverse duroso works fine with a slower flow like 300gph.
Oh yea, in the pic I posted you can see;
straight drain, 1" into 2" (in front)
straight drain, 1" into 1/2" pipe section across, then into 1 1/2" reverse duroso (center)
Skimmer drain, 1 1/2" into 2" (back)
Frag tank drain slower flow, all 1" (way in back, not really visable in the pic)
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/search.asp?search=26058&x=16&y=12
Another option is sometimes you can find some strange PVC parts like the one in the front in the pic I posted, it's a 2" body with a 1.5" coming out at 45 deg, which worked perfectly for my application.
In the end I think it depends a lot on how much flow will be going through the drain. Using all 1" on a reverse duroso works fine with a slower flow like 300gph.
Oh yea, in the pic I posted you can see;
straight drain, 1" into 2" (in front)
straight drain, 1" into 1/2" pipe section across, then into 1 1/2" reverse duroso (center)
Skimmer drain, 1 1/2" into 2" (back)
Frag tank drain slower flow, all 1" (way in back, not really visable in the pic)
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Bao
Non-member
first of all, the level of the water in the overflow chamber goes up and down (the flushing affect). the pipe with a T at the end is submerged about 7-8 inches into the water. then there is alot of noise, water was shooting out of the second pipe that supposed to let out the air. alot of bubbles. I just build the reverse durso exactly like the one in the link on first pages. The only different is it was made out of 1" pipe. This tank will be in my bedroom, so quiet is what I want the most. From what I read so far, reverse durso is the most ideal method to quiet down the drain water from the tank right?
thanks
thanks
Umm,
The flushing in the overflow may actually be because of too much or too little air being let into the regular duroso? Have you tried testing it with the reverse duroso removed (so it'll be splasning and making a ton of noise, but there will be no back pressure from the bottom)? If you try this it should then drain smoothly, if it doesn't you know you need to fiddle with the tuning on the air intake up top.
On the reverse duroso, try having the pipe only submerged an inch or so. If that doesn't fix it, then yea, go up to a larger size.
I certainly could be wrong, but it sounds to me like it's two problems affecting each other. (drain surging/flushing, and reverse duroso backing up a bit. If that's the case the surging will amplify the backing up problem).
The flushing in the overflow may actually be because of too much or too little air being let into the regular duroso? Have you tried testing it with the reverse duroso removed (so it'll be splasning and making a ton of noise, but there will be no back pressure from the bottom)? If you try this it should then drain smoothly, if it doesn't you know you need to fiddle with the tuning on the air intake up top.
On the reverse duroso, try having the pipe only submerged an inch or so. If that doesn't fix it, then yea, go up to a larger size.
I certainly could be wrong, but it sounds to me like it's two problems affecting each other. (drain surging/flushing, and reverse duroso backing up a bit. If that's the case the surging will amplify the backing up problem).
Bao
Non-member
Hi Janda,
the reverse durso that you made is like the one that Jimmy and Berhmon posted on the first page, like a T or it is the real Reverse Durso from stockman website? I made one like the picture on first page and it works really well. I made it out of a 3" standpipe. It it not complete silence but greatly reduced the noise and only small about of bubble left
the reverse durso that you made is like the one that Jimmy and Berhmon posted on the first page, like a T or it is the real Reverse Durso from stockman website? I made one like the picture on first page and it works really well. I made it out of a 3" standpipe. It it not complete silence but greatly reduced the noise and only small about of bubble left
You won't be able to totally eliminate the micorbubbles, but don't be afraid to tweak the set up a little to try to reduce them some more.
You can fiddle with the size of the air hole in the reverse duroso, add a 45 or 90 deg fitting to the bottom of the drain pipe to direct it differently so that the bubbles come out going away from the return pump (allowing more time for them to dissapate), and probably a few other things I'm not thinking of.
Also if you run the reverse duroso / drain through a filter sock it will help a good bit.
Last thing that comes to mind is the "Hiller bubble trap".
IIRC, it's simply taking a small trash can, rubbermaid, bucket or whatever you have handy that will fit in the sump. Cut the bottom off of said container, but make sure you do a bad job so that the bottom is somewhat jagged and not a nice clean straight cut. Now place that bottomless container so that it's around the drain pipe in the sump. This should act like an extra baffle of sorts, the bubbles will rise but the water will have to go down to get out.
You can fiddle with the size of the air hole in the reverse duroso, add a 45 or 90 deg fitting to the bottom of the drain pipe to direct it differently so that the bubbles come out going away from the return pump (allowing more time for them to dissapate), and probably a few other things I'm not thinking of.
Also if you run the reverse duroso / drain through a filter sock it will help a good bit.
Last thing that comes to mind is the "Hiller bubble trap".
IIRC, it's simply taking a small trash can, rubbermaid, bucket or whatever you have handy that will fit in the sump. Cut the bottom off of said container, but make sure you do a bad job so that the bottom is somewhat jagged and not a nice clean straight cut. Now place that bottomless container so that it's around the drain pipe in the sump. This should act like an extra baffle of sorts, the bubbles will rise but the water will have to go down to get out.
Snidgetless
Non-member
So to rehash an old thread... i am trying to cut down on the noise in the sump as the tank is in the living room. In order to do the reverse durso method though it would involved completely re-doing the sump. As of right now the tank is drilled with 1" pvc pipe for a drain with a 3/4" return hose. On the drain side as soon as it comes out the back of the tank it splits into a T with one end facing up to remove air. The pipe going down to the sump then crimps onto that typicaly sump hosing... you know what i am talking about and that hose in turn drops onto pad filter and then trickles into a wet/dry with the bioballs. In order to perform the reverse durso method it seems i will have to cut out the cage containing the bioballs (something i wanted to do anyways) and fill the sump with live rock rubble (already have the 15# box from Marco). Obviously this rock will need to be cycled first so i think i will just do it with a heater, pump for circulation and a big trash barrel and let it go for about a month. Any thoughts on this guys? Is this a good idea or am i just making more work for myself? I also figure this way since the sump is divided in two i can toss some snails and hermits? in one side to help with the detritus build up. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Snidgetless
Non-member
<bump> just didn't want to get lost in all the posts....
No need for a reverse duroso if the drain is draining onto bio balls. The reverse duroso is so that the drain can be submerged but not noisy or full of back pressure.
If you remove the bio balls and "dry" section, and then just add some LR rubble to the wet portion, you may want to use a reverse duroso for that set up.
As it is now, the reverse duroso will not make any difference.
HTH
If you remove the bio balls and "dry" section, and then just add some LR rubble to the wet portion, you may want to use a reverse duroso for that set up.
As it is now, the reverse duroso will not make any difference.
HTH
Snidgetless
Non-member
No, I agree 100 percent with you on that one... the reverse durso would only be put in if the bio balls and dry section of the tank are removed. I wanted to do that anyways because the bio balls are causing a lot of drama anyways. I guess the question is really if it is necessary with the T I have at the top of the intake... wouldn't that just let all the air out? Might be one of those things I will have to wait and see how it sounds before I do anything. But if I do go with this method, would I still need the T up top?
I'm not sure. If it were me, I'd make the changes your talking about and have the parts on hand to get rid of the T. I'd try it and fiddle around until everything was smooth and quiet.
I think you could remove the T, but I can't say for sure. Do you have a regular duroso on the inside of the drain, or is the T basically an external duroso?
I think you could remove the T, but I can't say for sure. Do you have a regular duroso on the inside of the drain, or is the T basically an external duroso?
